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Routes in Lost Face Area

Clout Buster T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Delicate Moves TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ibex TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lost Face T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lost Face Finger Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost Face Overhangs I & II T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost in the Woods (Unnamed Route 5.7) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Noah Vail T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rich Bechler Memorial Route T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,899 total, 43/month
Shared By: Andy Kowalski on Nov 7, 2004
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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72 Opinions

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Description

Lost Face is a very sweet climb. It was actually one of my first climbs at the Lake. The approach is a bit tricky. I never found a way to hike to it, we always had to rap down. It's a fun 5.6, not to mention it's the longest climb on the West Bluff. It's a great lead, with not a bad overhang for the crux. You won't need any large gear...Tri-cams and Hexes work the best for me. When leading there is a great ledge to sit on and anchor off. The ledge is above all the trees and it has to be one of the best views at the park. Climb it in the morning. When the sun is rising it paints the Lake in this awesome glow, plus you get to see a ton of hawks flying just above your head...Well worth the early wake up. I want to try this variation. First top rope the climb at the ledge that I mentioned earlier, or lead it. Start the climb over to the right at this thin crack that shoots strait up. Then you hit the crux traverse over to the left to the overhang and continue up to the ledge. The crack to the right is listed as a 5.7 and the overhang is a 5.8. I didn't get to climb it this last time so do tell me how it turns out. This is a great spot to get you acclimated to the area, which sees little crowding.

Protection

Tri-cams and Hexes work the best for me
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
 
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
 
Do Lost Face Finger Crack instead, it's way better! May 4, 2017
Ted Pinson
Chicago, IL
 
Ted Pinson   Chicago, IL
 
This was my first 5.6 lead at the lake, and it's a good option for the new trad leader, as the pro is plentiful and solid and stances good, intermixed with interesting climbing. You can pretty much place whatever you want on this route, once you make it past the beginning. I actually found the crux to be the opening moves onto that first ledge. Once you get up and get a piece in, it's smooth sailing. Oct 8, 2016
Mike Robinson
Boulder, CO
  5.6
Mike Robinson   Boulder, CO
  5.6
Hornets nest just below the alcove. Watch out! Jul 20, 2015
T Bloodstone
Minneapolis, MN
 
T Bloodstone   Minneapolis, MN
 
This route was on my To Do list for a long time. I finally led it. I wasn't able to place any protections for the first twenty feet. I got to the overhang when rain poured down on the face and it got really wet and slippery. My partner cleaned it in the rain and he was not happy. I loved the climb. Next time I'm gonna start on the finger crack to the right and go over the overhang. We rappelled down. There is no easy way to get down. The 4th class descent looks very scary. I used stoppers and one #3 cam. Sep 22, 2014
NickinCO
colorado
 
NickinCO   colorado
 
Yea, I put in a lot of gear. I've since done it on just a set of stoppers Nov 19, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.6
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.6
Just run it out next time. Makes the route way better. May 30, 2011
NickinCO
colorado
 
NickinCO   colorado
 
Lead it today in the rain (in my climbing shoes) and I have to say it's my favorite 5.6 in the park on lead. I hiked down and it was the first time I climbed it, great gear the whole route and challenging enough to keep it fun. I didn't use a stopper bigger than a #7 and wish I had doubles of 4-6. I also used a #3 ballnut, and a full range of C3's. The top of the climb takes bigger gear (#1 or 2 C4) but the climbing is easy enough. Great climb! May 29, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.6
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.6
I didn't have K-Mart tennis shoes but I did have 5.10's. This climb was extremely fun and the crux up through the slightly overhanging dihedral towards the top is thrilling to say the least. This climb was my 3rd lead at the Lake... and will go down as one of my favorites so far. Such a rad climb... everybody should get on this. The gear is great and next to perfect at the top for an anchor. Small to medium gear down low and bigger as you go up. Also, access to the Lost Face (if you forgo the rap in or the 4th class gully to the south) can be gained south of Great Chimney if you go down a set of stone stairs and follow the base of the crags to the Lost Face. Mar 15, 2010
This is a great route. I once led it during a summer downpour in a pair of old K-Mart tennis shoes!! Jul 2, 2008
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
The descent to the bottom of Lost Face can be tricky. If you are not going to rap in, there is a 4th class gully to the south of the face. I usually bring some webbing to "fix" a sketchy section down low. There is a horizontal tree that makes for a good anchor. May 2, 2002