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Coronary

5.7, Trad, TR, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 18 votes
FA: unknown
Wisconsin > Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake > E Bluff 04 - E… > 17: Hawk's Nest

Description

Coronary is found at Hawk's Nest just above the giant 20-ft high boulder. Start on the east side of the boulder and climb up the corner made by the wall and boulder. Stand on top of the boulder, place a stopper to your right, and slither over to the ledge about 5 feet right. Scrape out a mantel to gain this ledge, then head up and slightly left following the protruding rock (enjoy the exposure!) to the shallow dihedral. Aim for the pine tree above and finish out this nice climb.

Protection

Standard Rack for lead. For Top Rope setup go up Leaning Tower Gully and turn left. Walk west about one hundred feet. Look for a short rock/mortar wall. Jump over the wall and descend the small gully to the tree on the left. Anchor your rope so it hangs down to the right of the tree.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Coronary and Angina both start on top of the big boulder on left side of Hawk's Nest. Note the cedar tree at top where top-rope can be set.
[Hide Photo] Coronary and Angina both start on top of the big boulder on left side of Hawk's Nest. Note the cedar tree at top where top-rope can be set.
Scylla and Charybdis share the same start. Angina and Coronary start on big boulder on the left - you can climb the big crack on the right side of boulder or do an easy scramble up the left side of boulder.
[Hide Photo] Scylla and Charybdis share the same start. Angina and Coronary start on big boulder on the left - you can climb the big crack on the right side of boulder or do an easy scramble up the left side of…
If you compare this photo to Burt's photos of Jerry, you can see the big block that came off, just left of the overhang where Lewis is standing.<br> <br> And Jerry had gear behind that block!
[Hide Photo] If you compare this photo to Burt's photos of Jerry, you can see the big block that came off, just left of the overhang where Lewis is standing. And Jerry had gear behind that block!
Okay- now Jerry is up into the upper moves of Coronary.
[Hide Photo] Okay- now Jerry is up into the upper moves of Coronary.
Jerry again on Coronary. This time he is just below the funky flake.
[Hide Photo] Jerry again on Coronary. This time he is just below the funky flake.
Jerry Wingenter leads Coronary but takes the better variation to the start. Climbing the first moves of Charybdis (and clipping the fixed pin) then moving left towards the ramps and ledges below the meat of Coronary. Better start I think because it protects well and involves a nice mantle.
[Hide Photo] Jerry Wingenter leads Coronary but takes the better variation to the start. Climbing the first moves of Charybdis (and clipping the fixed pin) then moving left towards the ramps and ledges below t…
Coronary starts at the top of the dihedral (walkup or climb) at left and follows the protruding section to a shallow dihedral.
[Hide Photo] Coronary starts at the top of the dihedral (walkup or climb) at left and follows the protruding section to a shallow dihedral.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
[Hide Comment] I see someone (or it may have ejected on its own?) finally disposed of the large loose block at the midway point on this route. The route is now much safer and I don't think the overall difficulty has changed. It changes the character of the route though for sure. Aug 2, 2010
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
[Hide Comment] An alternate (and better) start is to climb the first half of "Scylla." See Burt & Jerry's photos. Nov 14, 2011