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Routes in 7.2.1 - Birthday Rocks

Birthday Boulder TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Birthday Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Birthday Crack T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bowing to the Undercling T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Caesarian Tower T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Caesarian West Face TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Chester's Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Doublemint T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Flux Capacitor Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flying Delorean T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Great White Hope T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Horner's Corner T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Left Twin, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mitzvah T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Phallacy of Symbolism, The TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Right Twin, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown2 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 679 total, 4/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Mar 20, 2002
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

The Left Twin follows the shallow inside corner up to the small overhang. Once at the overhang either climb to the right and finish in the nook shared by The Right Twin, or climb the obvious outside corner to the left using ledges and cracks.

Protection

Standard Rack

Photos

Austin Pethan
Madison, WI
 
Austin Pethan   Madison, WI
 
This route takes passive gear great. Bring a #2 or #3 C4 to place in the horizontal half way up. Jul 28, 2013
Joe "Big Boi" Osterman
Portland, OR
  5.7
Joe "Big Boi" Osterman   Portland, OR
  5.7
The gear on this route is a bit tricky. Brass micro offsets and ball nuts were clutch for protecting this route. The movements aren't too difficult but its definitely not an easy lead. Jun 18, 2013
Bryan Keller
Madison, WI
  5.6 PG13
Bryan Keller   Madison, WI
  5.6 PG13
This route felt like a 5.6 to me. There was no move on par with the difficulty of the crux of, say, Peter's Project or Birthday Crack to give it the 5.7 rating. I would even go so far as to say that this climb felt easier than Brinton's Crack and Pine Tree Step Across because the moves here were so obvious. Sep 24, 2012
Led this route this past weekend. Shallow gear running down the middle seam, but good/small horizontal ledges to the left of the crack 25 feet up for secure feet. Easier led than Right Twin. But worth time to climb it. May 30, 2012
roger fritz from rockford, IL   Rockford, IL
 
A couple loose blocks at strategic/crux locations. Be careful, but I truly think they have been loose for decades! One is a diagonal shaped block about half way up and is great for a lie-back. The 2nd one is toward the top and is about 1 to 1-1/2 foot tall little tower. It should only be used for a pull straight downward. An outward pull may lever it down on your belayer! Oct 23, 2011
I went here a few weeks ago with my sister. It was an easy hike (we had a dog) and lots of good anchors for TR. Its always nice to find an area where we both can be challenged. If you start left of the left twin, you can make it a bit more challenging. There are plenty of ways to make any of the easier climbs on Birthday rock more difficult. Jun 15, 2003