PRINT: Rock Climb Great White Hope, Devil's Lake

Great White Hope

5.11a/b, Trad, TR,

Avg: 3.5 from 33 votes
FA: R. Bechler ,D. Moir, S. Sangdahl, 1981
Wisconsin > Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake > E Bluff 07 - Ra… > 7.2.1 - Birthday Rocks

Description

The Great White Hope can be found between the Birthday Crack (route 9) and the Right Twin (route 10). Climb up to the large horizontal crack using small ledges. Above the horizontal crack the climbing gets very thin. Use delicate moves on small face features to ascend to the top.

Protection

Top Rope

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

rich bechler on the first lead of GREAT WHITE HOPE,1981.photo:s. sangdahl

Birthday Boulder (14) with Great White Hope (8) in the background

Great White Hope to Birthday Chimney

Frogging-up for a bump to a better hold at the top of Great White Hope. Spring 2013.

Climbing the beautifully flowing moves in the upper section in the spring of 2013 (Disclaimer: I'm the mean height and weight of players in the NBA so your experience might be different). Love this…

Dale Moir ,Great White Hope.

The Right Twin (7) and Great White Hope (8) with Birthday Crack to the right

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Anonymous

f.f.a. : rich bechler ,dale moir, steve sangdahl, 1981? i dont think it was named for the color of the lichen. Mar 22, 2002

Tom Anderson-Brown
Madison, WI

5.11a

Thanks for the FA info, I'll update it. Do you know why it's called Great White Hope? Mar 23, 2002

Jay Knower
Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY

I think Great White Hope may have been led by James Loveridge in the summer of 2000. This could have been the first lead??? Does anyone know if it has been led before this? May 6, 2002

Anonymous

the first lead of great white hope was by rich bechler , steve sangdahl and dale moir 1981 May 11, 2002

Anonymous Coward

Oh, come on Steve. Don't get touchy. Besides, your gear is "off route"...ABQ Apr 23, 2003

Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs, co

the gear is not mine, its Bechlers. May 8, 2003

rich bechler

gear within reach is gear placed as long as you do not step off route! Mar 17, 2005

Anonymous Coward

Dale Moir leading? Jul 8, 2005

John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin

What an amazing route. I saw this when I first started climbing 2 years ago. It was such a pleasing looking line. I wanted to get on it ever since. So glad I finally did. Apr 10, 2009

Remo
Madison, WI

Fun route and tricky. Oct 6, 2009

John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin

Ya, all the hands are right there, but feet get really beta intensive. Oct 9, 2009

Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO

5.11a

Didn't really much like this route. I thought the feet were horrible and I kept slipping off on them... perhaps it was the humidity that prevented me from sending this route. Meh. And honestly... the upper section was not the crux for me. The lower was the crux and an awkward one at that. May 14, 2011

Michael Sullivan
Boulder, CO

5.11c

This thing is so good! The climb has (for someone with my proportions) the most beautifully flowing moves (especially the upper half) that I've experienced in the park. Flags (both traditional and behind the other leg), drop knee, step throughs... lots of fun movement. And it is quite sustained. Thought it was harder than WWH, Coup-de-etat, Vivisection, and Hammer Master. Jun 20, 2013