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Routes in 7.2.1 - Birthday Rocks

Birthday Boulder TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Birthday Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Birthday Crack T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bowing to the Undercling T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Caesarian Tower T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Caesarian West Face TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Chester's Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Doublemint T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Flux Capacitor Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flying Delorean T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Great White Hope T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Horner's Corner T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Left Twin, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mitzvah T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Phallacy of Symbolism, The TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Right Twin, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown2 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,942 total, 21/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Mar 20, 2002
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

The Birthday Crack is one of the better-known climbs at the Lake. It is a fun and challenging climb with a pretty sustained crack. Start out to the left of the Birthday Chimney (route 10) below the junction of a vertical and horizontal crack. Climb up the vertical crack into the pocket at the junction of the two cracks. Don't get yourself too far back into this pocket or you'll get stuck. Reach high (real high) with both hands and pull up on a juggy hold to get above the pocket. The top half of the climb is slightly easier with a nice sustained 20-foot crack to the top.

Protection

Standard Rack
Aawait
  5.7+
Aawait  
  5.7+
At the crux, I had a harder time getting my #3 Camalot placed to my satisfaction so I climbed a bit higher and placed a bomber #2. Fun lead! Jul 29, 2012
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.7+
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.7+
John, I used it last week when I led the route. Placing the #3 exactly where I wanted to jam didn't assist my older beta. But that hold on the right of the crack forces you to come out of your "safe place" and make some cool moves that feel pretty exposed. Apr 8, 2011
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.8+
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.8+
Andy, there's a great hand hold to the right of the off width section. Its sorta hidden and makes getting to the good hold way easier. I didn't see it the first time I did the route. Apr 8, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.7+
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.7+
Despite what the route description says, I believe you can really cram yourself into the niche to get a good no hands rest- not that you've climbed that high already but still... And also, instead of reaching really high, which I found to be very awkward, a fist jam is a very appropriate move to make in order to get a little higher up in order to make that reach for the good hold a cleaner move. Oct 11, 2010
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.8+
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.8+
Agreed Bruce. A great lead! And that #3 camalot is is key for that overhang. Sep 19, 2008
Ishmail
Utah
Ishmail   Utah
A great lead! A #3 camalot protects the bulge move if you can slide it high enough w/draw. Fun jams and jugs. Sep 7, 2007
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.8+
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.8+
A great climb! Loved it. A little harder than 5.7 I would say. Aug 31, 2007
2SCM
  5.6
2SCM  
  5.6
This is a good climb. I was at DL last weekend and climbed it. I feel sorry for the shorter climbers out there like my friend HARRIS manily because if you tall enough there is nice positive grip on the left witch is really easy to reach if your 6.2 but not if your 5.10. although i think the climb was more enjoyable to him. May 25, 2005
This is on of my favorites. Good clean moves with smooth transitions. The crux is defiantly in beginning, where the vertical and horizontal cracks meet. Aug 13, 2002
The crux is in the first third of the route. At the point where it bulges out where the main vertical crack and a horizontal crack meet. After that, smooth sailing. May 5, 2002