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Routes in 7.2.1 - Birthday Rocks

Birthday Boulder TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Birthday Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Birthday Crack T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bowing to the Undercling T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Caesarian Tower T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Caesarian West Face TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Chester's Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Doublemint T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Flux Capacitor Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flying Delorean T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Great White Hope T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Horner's Corner T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Left Twin, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mitzvah T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Phallacy of Symbolism, The TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Right Twin, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown2 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: TR
FA: Pete Cleveland, TR, Tommy Deuchler first lead
Page Views: 1,956 total, 10/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Mar 20, 2002
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

The Caesarian West Face sits at the southeast end of the Birthday Rocks formation. It is a tricky climb split into three sections. The lower section is climbed using the obvious horizontal crack. Move through the center section past the overhang using small face holds. Pull a hard mantle on the ledge to begin the last section. Climb the last section using the fingertip crack to the top.

Protection

Top Rope
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
  5.12b
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
  5.12b
cool, first I have heard of this.sure would be great to know what year. Dave Groth might know. peace etc ss Jan 6, 2011
Mark Kauz
Madison, WI
Mark Kauz   Madison, WI
Just talked to Pete Cleveland. He belayed Tommy Deuchler on this on lead he said. Not sure the date. Jan 5, 2011
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.12c
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.12c
Tom, go back to Railroad Tracks and see "The Dick". Sep 17, 2010
Tradiban
  5.12c
Tradiban  
  5.12c
Yea, balancy moves with lots of core tension and a dead point that has to be done just right to avoid disappointment. I was overjoyed with just a TR ascent.

Remo threw a wobbler ("I HATE THIS CLIMB! FUCK!") after biffing three times in a row, then I made him take a rest and he sent next go, professing his undying love for the climb afterwards. The guy is a total nut. Oct 19, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.12c
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.12c
Excellent route! Oct 19, 2009
Tradiban
  5.12c
Tradiban  
  5.12c
We determined that, yes, the upper wall is part of the whole route. It's a bit weird to pull more of a slab face to a huge ledge, then pull an overhanging face on jugs but hey, your at Devils Lake, so sack up.

The bottom is the meat with moves (if you can pull them) that give a sense of floating up the face because of the dire nature of the feet. Chalk and scrubbing is a must.

Short people might complain that the dead point is reachy (like Remo did) but with the proper technique even the vertically challenged can easily stick it. It's a matter of finesse. Oct 6, 2009
Tradiban
  5.12c
Tradiban  
  5.12c
Is the upper tower after the ledge with the bolts part of CWF?
"Using the finger tip crack to the top" does that mean going straight up the bolt line?
According to Sven's description it seemed like after the rest ledge (if the second tower is part of this climb) you should start on the right obvious crack and then traverse over left to the opposite corner to finish. This seemed like the easiest way to do it albeit not the most direct.
Straight up the bolt line seemed way over 12c. Jul 2, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.12 PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.12 PG13
Tried to lead it with great struggle and some hangs in 1992 or so. Bloody fingers at the very top from getting sloppy. Yuck. I believe I recall the fixed hardware being sketchy. Sep 7, 2008
I tr'ed this line circa 1980?
Does this mean I have the coveted 5th ascent? Sep 4, 2008
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
  5.12b
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
  5.12b
rich,thanks fer the update.does that mean i got the "coveted" 4th ascent? Mar 23, 2005
The bolts where placed by the CMC to overcome their lack of free climbing skills.There is also a tower above the Caesarian that has a line of bolts up a overhanging face that we tried in vain to free climb. This may be a challenge for the new generation of ne'er-do-wells. Mar 23, 2005
I am listed as doing the ffa of this route,but in fact I did the 3rd.Pete did the 1st and tom did the 2nd.Of course if you talk to Tom he did the first and if you talk to Pete he did the first. Mar 23, 2005
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
  5.12b
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
  5.12b
what is the history of this route? who put the bolts in up higher? has any one led it? i seem to remember it being very difficult. this is a killer line_ Mar 22, 2005
f.f.a. : rich bechler ,top rope Mar 22, 2002