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Cop-Out

5.11a, Trad, TR,  Avg: 3.6 from 38 votes
FA: Pete Cleveland
Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > E Bluff 07 - Ra… > 7.1.1 - Railroad Amph…

Description

Cop-Out starts about half-way between Snedegar's Nose and The Pillar. Climb up the slightly overhanging wall on finger cracks until you reach the inside corner under the mid-size roof. Once under the roof step out of the corner and onto the face to your right. Use vertical cracks to ascend to the top.

Protection

Standard Rack

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jay Knower. Photo by Andrew Burr.
[Hide Photo] Jay Knower. Photo by Andrew Burr.
Tony Brengosz on Cop Out.
[Hide Photo] Tony Brengosz on Cop Out.
Stewart of the HWDAMF with his OS attempt.
[Hide Photo] Stewart of the HWDAMF with his OS attempt.
Tony Brengosz classically cool on the upper portion of Cop Out.
[Hide Photo] Tony Brengosz classically cool on the upper portion of Cop Out.
4-24-11. Dispacthing the crux in a strong and orderly fashion.  His previous ground work has served him well.<br>
<br>
Photo by Eric Puescel.
[Hide Photo] 4-24-11. Dispacthing the crux in a strong and orderly fashion. His previous ground work has served him well. Photo by Eric Puescel.
4-24-11.  Nice and warm in the sun.  Oh my... where does the good gear get placed... the mental preperation phase.<br>
<br>
Photo by Eric Puescel.
[Hide Photo] 4-24-11. Nice and warm in the sun. Oh my... where does the good gear get placed... the mental preperation phase. Photo by Eric Puescel.
Tony Brengosz spies the next move out of the dihedral.
[Hide Photo] Tony Brengosz spies the next move out of the dihedral.
Northern wall of the Railroad Amphitheater
[Hide Photo] Northern wall of the Railroad Amphitheater
4-24-11.  A nice shot of how "Cop Out" pans out on the lead.  Dmitriy almost at the top.<br>
<br>
Photo by Eric Puescel.
[Hide Photo] 4-24-11. A nice shot of how "Cop Out" pans out on the lead. Dmitriy almost at the top. Photo by Eric Puescel.
Rhoads just past the dihedral.
[Hide Photo] Rhoads just past the dihedral.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] f.a. : pete cleveland ? Mar 22, 2002
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] pete cleveland did do the f.a. on this a long time ago.this is a killer lead.and a great place to hang on a hot day.bring plenty of swill. Mar 22, 2005
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] nick,the first lead was by Pete Cleveland a very long time ago. it has been led many times since and soloed. Nov 25, 2005
[Hide Comment] I remember going right out of the roof. Is the description wrong or is that just a different variation? Jun 29, 2009
J Beta
New Hampshire
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] I think the description is wrong. I'll change it. Jun 29, 2009
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] I'd say the description is way off. Not really finger cracks. More like this

"Start with some good side pulls and layback positions. Continue with those movements. Make a powerful move to a great jug about 25ft up. Move up a bit and take a nice no hands rest. Move towards the roof and ascend the small dihedral to get under the main roof. Move out right and use jugs and good crimps to ascend to top. (there might be one hold in that vertical crack, it is a really tight seam.)"

That being said....This is the best climb I have done at Devil's Lake. 5 stars!! Jul 9, 2009
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] It does have finger crack action through the dihedral. Bottom section to the big flake was all laybacks for me. Is the big flake and the good pocket above the flake the first gear? Jul 9, 2009
[Hide Comment] The first gear was in the flaring-ness about 12 feet off the deck, Met #6 if I recall correctly. Jul 9, 2009
chris tregge
Beersconsin
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Unlikely but bomber medium nut about 7-8 feet off the ground in a constriction. I didn't really see the great placement until I was at it and the nut sort of slid in almost horizontally straight in. Then the flaring area up and right 12 feet up, I think I put a #3 or #4 BD camalot. Then one more kinda tricky small piece in the thin crack before the crux, then it's pretty much over, as I recall. I only did it once, on sight. Super fun. I did both this and Catenary the same night with SteveZ and I thought they were of comparable difficulty. Jul 9, 2009
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] I did Catenary first, and thought the same thing, very similar movement in the cruxes and similar difficulty. Jul 10, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Fun route! That dihedral at the top is super cool. Sep 8, 2010
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
[Hide Comment] Chris, what do you mean by "Unlikely but bomber nut...?" This looks like a great lead. Apr 2, 2011
chris tregge
Beersconsin
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] As I recall, there is this strange vertical constriction that is slopey for a handhold, and I stuck a nut back into it at a 90 degree angle and pulled it straight down and then out towards me, and it lodged in pretty tight. I did not expect anything to fit there at all but it was pretty solid. 'Course that was now a couple years ago so YMMV...

I am not really sure it's necessary since you know a half way decent cam will go in the flaring slot about 12 feet up but it made me more confident since at that moment I wasn't 100% sure anything would go in the flare. Apr 3, 2011
Kiri Namtvedt
Minneapolis, MN
 
[Hide Comment] Note: in August 2014 I encountered a small wasp nest about halfway up (in the smallish incut/overhang). They were aggressive! Aug 11, 2014
[Hide Comment] Just spent 4 days at Devil's Lake, and this was my favorite route of the bunch. Nothing contrived about this line: great, obvious (but not easy!) movement. Hitting the dihedral, and moving out of it beneath the rough was a very interesting (and a bit commiting) move for me personally. I wasn't really able to use the finger crack in the dihedral save at one small 3 inch section. Anyways, amazing route. Sep 7, 2016