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Chez's Chimney

5.4, Trad, TR,  Avg: 2.2 from 80 votes
FA: Bill McChesney
Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > East Bluff 01 -… > 1. Old Sandstone

Description

Chez's Chimney is easily located. Just look for the sizeable chimney on the west-facing wall as you approach the area from the trail. The chimney is easily scaled using huge jug holds, palms, and plenty of friction smearing. This is a great climb to get a beginner acquainted to sandstone. May not be the best for leading because there's plenty of stuff to hit in a fall.

Protection

Standard Rack

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Liz on Chez's Chimney
[Hide Photo] Liz on Chez's Chimney
John on Chez's Chimney<br>
Full shot of entire route<br>
At first crux in route
[Hide Photo] John on Chez's Chimney Full shot of entire route At first crux in route
Burt Preston working his way up Chez's Chimney.
[Hide Photo] Burt Preston working his way up Chez's Chimney.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] f.a.: bill mcchesney Mar 22, 2002
[Hide Comment] Chez just sent me an email arguing that 5.4b is the appropriate grade for this mega-classic. How can one disagree with the first ascentionist? Dec 17, 2006
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
[Hide Comment] I remember well the day Chez showed us this.Where we saw a blank unprotectable,unclimbable peice of rock,Chez had the vision to see THE LINE OF KILL! WE could'nt beleive he was going to lead it.We watched in awe as he sprinted up the climb totally unproteceted in his trademark fast,bold,smooth,and somewhat out of control style.When none of us could follow he declared us all LITE.Chez was a master of rock and FUK-NES TOO. I cant say fer sure but I think he was on some sort of mind altering substance,not to mention the 12 pack or at least a half dozen TUCHER HEFE WEISENS(with lemons of course)he consumed before his ascent.Truly walking THE FINE LINE OF FUK-NES.I'm thinking its probably alot harder than what Chez rated it,he was known for his sandbagging and down rating routes.
PEACE AND FUK-NES ,Steve S Dec 18, 2006
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
[Hide Comment] And one more thing,my esteemed BROTHER OF FUK-NES and fellow SECURITY COUNCIL member HAMMERCASE DAVE "DUKE OF PUKE" SLOSHBURY has this to say about CHEZ , "Chez is SOOOOOOOO JACKED!!!!!!"
High praise indeed coming from old HAMMERCASE. Dec 20, 2006
Josh Olson
Durango, CO
  5.4
[Hide Comment] Barefoot soloing at its best. I love that sandstone. Jun 1, 2012
[Hide Comment] Watch out for a loose horn about 2/3 of the way up.. I was about to sling that thing haha Nov 21, 2017