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Chez's Chimney
5.4,
Trad, TR,
Avg: 2.2 from 103
votes
FA: Bill McChesney
Wisconsin
> Baraboo Range
> Devil's Lake
> E Bluff 01 - Sa…
> 1. Old Sandstone
Description
Chez's Chimney is easily located. Just look for the sizeable chimney on the west-facing wall as you approach the area from the trail. The chimney is easily scaled using huge jug holds, palms, and plenty of friction smearing. This is a great climb to get a beginner acquainted to sandstone. May not be the best for leading because there's plenty of stuff to hit in a fall.
[Hide Photo] Wobbly Dihedral to Dancing Madly Backwards. Near the top of the access trail from the road, these are some of the most popular routes at Old Sandstone.
[Hide Comment] Chez just sent me an email arguing that 5.4b is the appropriate grade for this mega-classic. How can one disagree with the first ascentionist?
Dec 17, 2006
[Hide Comment] I remember well the day Chez showed us this.Where we saw a blank unprotectable,unclimbable peice of rock,Chez had the vision to see THE LINE OF KILL! WE could'nt beleive he was going to lead it.We watched in awe as he sprinted up the climb totally unproteceted in his trademark fast,bold,smooth,and somewhat out of control style.When none of us could follow he declared us all LITE.Chez was a master of rock and FUK-NES TOO. I cant say fer sure but I think he was on some sort of mind altering substance,not to mention the 12 pack or at least a half dozen TUCHER HEFE WEISENS(with lemons of course)he consumed before his ascent.Truly walking THE FINE LINE OF FUK-NES.I'm thinking its probably alot harder than what Chez rated it,he was known for his sandbagging and down rating routes. PEACE AND FUK-NES ,Steve S
Dec 18, 2006
[Hide Comment] And one more thing,my esteemed BROTHER OF FUK-NES and fellow SECURITY COUNCIL member HAMMERCASE DAVE "DUKE OF PUKE" SLOSHBURY has this to say about CHEZ , "Chez is SOOOOOOOO JACKED!!!!!!" High praise indeed coming from old HAMMERCASE.
Dec 20, 2006
[Hide Comment] Great easy long climb. Perfect for someone’s first outside climb. It’s a fun intro to crack climbing and it’s easy to set a top rope.
Jun 7, 2019
[Hide Comment] Despite the wide-looking features, this climb can be comfortably led without any big gear. Just reach in deep, explore, and extend. I didn't place anything bigger than a #1 C4.
Jun 21, 2022
Avg: 2.2 from 103
votes
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Basalt CO
eldo sprngs, co
PEACE AND FUK-NES ,Steve S Dec 18, 2006
eldo sprngs, co
High praise indeed coming from old HAMMERCASE. Dec 20, 2006
Durango, CO
Madison, WI