Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Watermarks

5.8, Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 136 votes
FA: unknown
Wisconsin > Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake > E Bluff 06 - Ba… > 2. Balanced Rock Wall

Description

Watermarks is considered by many to be the ultimate moderate climb at the park. This may or may not be your opinion. The route has some nice moves and fun sequences, and it is easy to get to as it's right on the trail.

Watermarks is easily located by finding the water stains on the southeast end of the Balanced Rock Wall. Climb easily up to a small ledge. Traverse right carefully on this ledge until you reach the two triangular pockets. Use the two triangular pockets to make your way up to a slight bulge in the rock. Use the crack and small face holds to surmount the bulge (crux). Continue up crack to the top.

Protection

Standard Rack

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Dillon on-sight leads Watermarks on crisp clear November day.  Past the hard stuff now.
[Hide Photo] Dillon on-sight leads Watermarks on crisp clear November day. Past the hard stuff now.
Southeast end of Balanced Rock Wall
[Hide Photo] Southeast end of Balanced Rock Wall
Marianne on TR, Sept. 2011
[Hide Photo] Marianne on TR, Sept. 2011
Borrowed Rhoads' photo of Remo and drew some lines in it.
[Hide Photo] Borrowed Rhoads' photo of Remo and drew some lines in it.
Balancing move on watermarks
[Hide Photo] Balancing move on watermarks
At the 2nd piece of gear, moving into the crux moves. Exciting!
[Hide Photo] At the 2nd piece of gear, moving into the crux moves. Exciting!
At the first piece of gear on Watermarks.
[Hide Photo] At the first piece of gear on Watermarks.
Watermarks.  Classic!  Aug 09.
[Hide Photo] Watermarks. Classic! Aug 09.
Watermarks.
[Hide Photo] Watermarks.
Dillon on-sight leads Watermarks on crisp clear November day.
[Hide Photo] Dillon on-sight leads Watermarks on crisp clear November day.
Dillon on-sight leads Watermarks on crisp clear November day.
[Hide Photo] Dillon on-sight leads Watermarks on crisp clear November day.
leading watermarks, a micronut and the two smallest tcu's (#00 & #0)were my first pieces used
[Hide Photo] leading watermarks, a micronut and the two smallest tcu's (#00 & #0)were my first pieces used

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Zachary Wyatt
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Watermarks is a fun climb, plain and simple. It requires a nice variety of movement and, though it does have an identifiable crux, is consistently challenging throughout. I consider this a "must climb" route. Apr 19, 2004
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs, co
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] watermarks is one of the best at dl.especially fun to climb on a full moon during the "beer ban"(does the dnr still do the beer ban thing?")bring plenty o swill and no flashlights or i.d. Mar 28, 2005
Stephen Marsh
Thornton, CO
  5.8
[Hide Comment] If this climb was anywhere else it would not be considered a classic. That's not to say it's a bad climb, I had fun leading it. The hardest climbing is on the first half and that's also the hardest part to protect. To lead it you better be comfortable at placing really small gear and trusting it. That, or use a crash pad and spotter for the start. Jul 6, 2005
[Hide Comment] Stephen:If you don't mind me asking. What do you mean by your comment "if this climb (watermaraks)was anywhere else it would not be considered a classic"? Are Devils Lake "Classic's" any less a "Classic" by virtue of their location at Devils Lake? Please clarify. Jul 7, 2005
Stephen Marsh
Thornton, CO
  5.8
[Hide Comment] I meant just what I wrote, and nothing more! I haven't done enough climbing at Devils Lake to be able to form an opinion as to whether or not Watermarks is one of the great moderates in the area. I knew the climb was popular before doing it, and for me, it didn't hold up to all the hype. As I wrote, I still think it's a good climb worth doing. If it sounded like I was degrading the climbing at the Lake, that was not my intention. Jul 9, 2005
sgauss
 
[Hide Comment] Set anchors for top roping on the ledge at the top of the climb, not up alongside Balanced Rock. From the base of Watermarks, go to the right and up to find the Box Canyon which is behind the wall. Go into the far SW corner of this, and boulder up about eight feet to get to the ledge. Oct 11, 2006
[Hide Comment] Not a fan of this one and it definitely isn't a climb for a new 5.8 climber. Be careful to protect the middle section, there's a notch where I placed a nut but I didn't have confidence in it. Thankfully there's a good cam placement a bit higher up. Aug 11, 2011
chris tregge
Madison WI
  5.8
[Hide Comment] From Gokul: mountainproject.com/u/gokul…


Description

This route is a minor variant of Watermarks (and a squeeze job). It starts just to the right of the regular start and goes up between the two black water streaks. After a few tenuous moves, you hit the good ledgy hold on Watermarks about 12' up. From here, you follow Watermarks or Watermarks Direct, or some combination of both.

The starting sidepulls used by Watermarks Direct are about 3 ft to the right of the start here and are off. The starting holds in the main Watermarks crack are also off.

Location

Between the two black streaks that define the starts of Watermarks and Watermarks Direct.

Protection

Bouldery start, then you get gear in Watermarks or Watermarks direct Mar 18, 2015
John Wanner
West Allis, WI
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Length: about 50 feet. An excellent face climb, with the first 15 feet calling for rather creative protection (or maybe a bouldering pad). After stepping right into the triangular pockets, good gear in the incipient crack. One of those excellent climbs that has repeated fairly delicate moves, followed by good stances to place gear. Aug 30, 2016
Ana Swan
Jackson Hole, WY
  5.8
[Hide Comment] I considered the start to be pretty tough, the climb as a whole is a fun one! Oct 12, 2018