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Routes in Sports Challenge Rock - West Face

Alligator Tears T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chick Hern T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eddie Haskel Takes Manhatten T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ella-vation T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
I Just Told You T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Itty Bitty Buttress TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mortal Thoughts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ranger J.B. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ranger J.D. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rap Bolters are Weak S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ride a Wild Bago T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sphincter Quits T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
What's It To You T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
unknown T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Gib Lewis & Charles Cole, December 1979
Page Views: 517 total · 3/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jan 3, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

This line starts to the left of the moderate cracks on the south end of the west face known as Ranger JB and Ranger JD.

The line starts to the left of these and rises up and right on increasingly difficult terrian to where the crack runs out. There are 3 choices, and in increasing order of difficulty they are:

A) 5.10b: From a tiny pod in the crack where a hand-sized cam can be fidgeted, abandon the seam and climb directly up to a horizontal and traverse from there to the right to gain a well protected handcrack to finish.

B) 5.10d: From that pod, crimp out and right on bad feet to reach a spot where a single very long move can be made directly up to the same horizontal. Your pro is a bit below you and is only so-so. A fall would be exciting.

C) 5.11?: Continue directly in the seam on crumbling rock up and right directly to the bottom of the leaning handcrack up top. Holds are popping off, adding to the difficulty. Your pro is some distance down and left and is not that great. Hope the holds you grabbed are good.

Belay as for the other routes on this end of the rock and descend by rapping from summit anchors.

Protection

Without proper attention to protection, someone might get hurt on this line. Pro is available, but it is tricky and strenuous to place. This is not a route to test limits on.1 set of nuts, + cams to 3".

Photos

Tricamus
Culver City, CA
 
Tricamus   Culver City, CA
 
I was too chicken to push through the crux, as I thought I was warming up on an easier 5.10a. Too likely that I would've decked on the large boulder below. It's too bad the boulders are so close to this route, as the crack/seam actually begins deep in the gully between the main wall and the boulders. Dec 16, 2013
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Gear is often shallow, limited and questionable, our certified leader was doubling up at the crux and not super psyched on what was placed. When it came time to follow I opted for what I guess is "A" above seemed the quickest and most straight forward. Thin & solid edges to available if you need a little added height to reach the horizontal and larger holds above. Rock quality didn't seem to be the problem rather committing moves over questionable gear. Crack up and right very fun but more in line with the neighboring 5.6's found right. Jan 1, 2014

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