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Routes in Playhouse Rock

Anthrax T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baby Ice Dog T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Balancing Act TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beck's Bear T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Break a Leg T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Curtain Call T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dress Rehearsal T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fighting the Slime T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Final Act T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
I'm So Embarrassed For You T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Irritators, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kline's Incline TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Leading Lady T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
OC Gym Trad T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Playwright, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Psycho Groove T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stucca By A Yucca T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Don O'Kelley & Dave Davis, November 1976
Page Views: 2,899 total, 20/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jan 3, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

I thought that this climb was a fun climb at the grade. This climb starts up a crack and corner, just right of Final Act. This crack runs out soon, so the climb then heads up a puckered-crack and flakes up diagonally right to another crack above the starting position. This is the left-most of the two twin cracks on the upper half of the crag, the right one being the top end of Psycho Groove.

The climb is quite fun and protects reasonably. Most of the holds are large and secure, particularly up high where the climb gets steeper, but remarkably, easier!

Belay up top using gear, then walk off to the south (climber's left) and scramble down the gully.

Protection

A standard rack to 3"
It has been noted that there is a rap anchor just right of the top of this route.

Photos

Chad Parker
Ventura, California
 
Chad Parker   Ventura, California
 
The descent is a rap station just to the right at the top of this route. Jan 7, 2017
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
I led this the other day as a "warm-up" and thought the moves on the first half were quite interesting considering the lack of solid protection. It seemed that the crux move was about 15 feet above my first piece. The top half is much more casual and very fun. Apr 21, 2015
Dave Kos
  5.7
Dave Kos  
  5.7
Good route, but I also agree it would be heady for new leader. It protects well enough, but the most difficult section is a bit committing. A key hold, a black knob, may be a reach for anyone shorter than 5'9''. A 3/4 inch cam (I used a yellow alien) fits nicely in a pin scar above the knob once you get it. Apr 29, 2013
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Seems like the poor-man's version of Psycho Groove. Although, a budding .6 leader may think twice about the lead. Not overly hard but agreed the gear would be intimidating. We did it with no knowledge of what it is or the grade on TR for some mileage. Oct 3, 2012
dstandish
Los Angeles
dstandish   Los Angeles
Final Act doesn't seem to have great pro either. If you're gonna TR it, might as well just walk up and around to the top. There are big boulders up there to sling, but quite a ways back from the edge. There were also 2 bolts hangers, and maybe quicklinks but I can't remember. Mar 31, 2012
Grace C
Claremont, CA
 
Grace C   Claremont, CA
 
TinMan's got it right- I did this climb today and even though 6's are typically warm-ups for me, I found the runout after my first piece to be pretty intimidating. To make matters worse, the move that you have to make on said runout is definitely the crux (and a pretty stiff crux for a 5.6 imo). It did, however, look like you could protect it nicely with a very small cam, but, of course, I didn't have one Apr 25, 2010
TinMan92592
Temecula, CA
TinMan92592   Temecula, CA
First protective piece is easy to place up an easy 25 foot start of route. The problem is being able to place the second protective hardware (in the cracks whcih are too small and flaring) without running out another 15-20 feet. I risked the run out, found a good jug handhold and then lost my footing dangling 15 feet above my first protection. If you are having any doubts to lead this route it is best to first climb the more easily protective route of "Final Act" (route to left of Curtain Call) and then set up a top rope at two anchors 10 feet to climber's right of Curtain Call. Mar 22, 2010
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Fun climb for the grade. More of a face climb with cracks for protection. Feb 16, 2008
Scott Edlin
boulder, co
 
Scott Edlin   boulder, co
 
fun climb. the crux move involves smearing with not-so-great pro. Apr 12, 2006