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Routes in Playhouse Rock

Anthrax T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baby Ice Dog T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Balancing Act TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beck's Bear T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Break a Leg T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Curtain Call T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dress Rehearsal T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fighting the Slime T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Final Act T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
I'm So Embarrassed For You T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Irritators, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kline's Incline TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Leading Lady T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
OC Gym Trad T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Playwright, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Psycho Groove T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stucca By A Yucca T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Dave Davis & Don O'Kelley, March 1976
Page Views: 2,484 total, 17/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jan 3, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


52 Opinions

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Description

This route is the left most line on Playhouse Rock. It follows the obvious crack and corner from the low point in the ground to a point up top near the walk-off. This is shown in the attached photo as being to the right of the two lines marked. The protection is available to be safe, but the route is not sewn up. You may also note that I have substantially upgraded the line from 5.4 to 5.6. Although the route is probably mostly 5.4 or easier climbing, I believe that there are a few spots substantially harder and would not advise this as a good beginner lead.

Belay on the top from gear and descend by walking/scrambling to the south (climber's left), down to a gully.

Protection

A standard rack to 3"
i watch a fella from outa state take a fall on the lower section. they had picked the route because, at 5.4, it was theoretically the easiest on the crag.

look up and over your right shoulder when you get stuck. your good buddy is a big, black block. we took considerable trouble to install it there.

if you get bored with the direct finish, move out and right onto the shelf--an airy traverse, followed by delicate face moves to the final ledge. extra credit if you don't bellyflop the mantle. Oct 11, 2011
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
I was also glad to see the rating bumped up. I on-site soled this some years back and I still remember sweating the last section. It was almost my "final act." Nov 20, 2010
Chris D
the couch
Chris D   the couch
I love it. 5.4. Well, if the only other 5.4 you ever climbed was The Bong, you'd probably be ready for this one.

Joshua Tree is great. This is a fun climb. The crux is low, and stemming out will get you past it, but it's hard to protect. Mar 22, 2010
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
  5.6
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
  5.6
Really enjoyed this route, good variation in the climbing. Ran it out a bit but still felt safe. May 27, 2009
Rebecca
Broomfield, CO
  5.6
Rebecca   Broomfield, CO
  5.6
As my 6th official trad lead, and believing at the time that the route was a 5.4, I had wondered briefly, as I was ascending and feeling a bit insecure, about the sanity of the person who originally rated it - no offense intended. I thought there were two cruxes, one at the second (third up in my picture) large "bulge" about 20 feet up where there is a flaring crack, not much for good pro and no really decent, obvious hand holds. (By the way, there is an easy way to bypass this part simply by walking up the ledge to the left, up the easy and shorter left side and back over to the route - in case your head gets the better of you). The second crux would be pulling the little "roof" part at the top which looks far more daunting than it is as there are great hands, feet and solid pro spots all over the place. Fun route, good for beginning leaders trying to stretch their abilities and better rated at a 5.6 for sure! I really loved pulling the little roof at the top much more than the flaring sketchiness of the crack below. Oct 27, 2008
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Real fun climb! Yeah, there was one sketchy placement in the wide section where I thought my foot was going to blow before I got the cam set. If you are not comfortable on slab I can see where this one is quite heady for the rating. Toughing it out in the groove is rewarded with 5.easy climbing up a well-protected crack. Feb 16, 2008
John Schirmer
Franklin, TN
John Schirmer   Franklin, TN
Glad to see the rating on this climb bumped up.

I took a fall on the roof section of the 5.5 Roboranger the day before. Even though my gear held and I learned the hard way that I was making good placements on my early leads I was still a bit shaken.

My partner talked me into leading this route before we left to go home. This route is for certin not 5.4. Gear is real sketchy and you have to work for good pieces in some not so secure stances. This route was super fun and was just what I needed after taking that fall. Gave me my confidece back and then some.

Becareful this route will entice you and then beat you down. FA was in '74 so that should tell you something about the grade. I love J-Tree and it's rating system. This route was much harder then any of the 15 5.4's and 5.5's I did in my 3 day weekend. Feb 12, 2007
Scott Edlin
boulder, co
Scott Edlin   boulder, co
not a good lead for a beginning 5.6 leader - flared offwidth with marginal small pro Apr 12, 2006