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Routes in Little Rock Candy Mountain

Bare Leigh Legal S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chicken Bones T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chicken Comb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Count Chocula TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flake Hickey T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kendall Mint Cake T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Lips Like Sugar T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Rock Candy Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
M & M's Peanut T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
M & Ms Plain T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
McStumpy Sandwich T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
My Balls feel like a Pair of Maracas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nestle's Crunch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Squirrel Roast T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sugar Daddy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Musketeers, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Alan Bartlett, Don Reid, Todd Gordon & Cyndie Bransford, April 1988
Page Views: 453 total, 3/month
Shared By: David Cox on Oct 22, 2005
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Started out on a rail and moved up and slightly right towards the bolt 20 or so feet up. Above the bolt the rock is solid and the climbing gets steep climbing past a horizontal and through some thin seems. One of my favorite leads as far as keeping my head together goes. Good Times!!!!Rap off M&Ms plain.

Protection

One bolt + a light rack for the climbing. I could not seem to find anything worthy of placing past the bolt (You may find something). Large pro for anchor.

Photos

Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.7+ R
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.7+ R
Good route! Wander on up to the bolt, clip the 1/4" relic and cast off. You can head up and right on really crappy rock and feel safer, or head left on really good rock with adequate holds. I did the up left method and thought the climbing was really good, but the fall would be really bad. Suffice it to say you would not be walking back to the car if you came off. Beauty of it is, you wont come off as holds just continue to appear as needed. Anchor on top is non existent but you can sling some horns pretty far back from the lip. Rap from the bolted anchor for M and M's Plain. Nov 7, 2010
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.9 R
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.9 R
FA's: Alan Bartlett, Don Reid, Todd Gordon & Cyndie Bransford

Four on the first ascent but only one bolt?!! Honest to biscuit if this route had just one more bolt on it and people would be lined up for it.

I was the second today but feel confident in saying the route is fun and good with not a move harder than 5.9 on it. If you're a solid .9 leader and have your wits about you'll enjoy this sandwich! As a bonus it has a very short (one move) bouldery start which adds to the fun.

We don't frequent this crag often but this route will be added to the circuit for sure. Nov 7, 2010
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
We TR'd this, taking a direct line up the center of the face. It gets thin on less than positive edges, and near vertical at the top. Doing the climb this way definately felt .10a. Balancy and sequential - fun fun fun! Apr 30, 2007