The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/… Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Avg: 3.7 from 509
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
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Lassitude 33
rancho cucamonga
Yosemite
Boulder, CO
Carbondale, CO
Citrus Heights
However, I may be biased having belayed Jimmy on his ascent and finding it hard myself...:(. But thin hands on overhanging rock is not 5.10...consider yourself fortunate if this size suits you and base your rating please on other experience on thin hands.
Best rock quality in JT. Dec 19, 2016
Also if O'kelly's is .10c how can this be .11a? Nov 30, 2018
San Diego, CA
On the road, mostly Southwest
One of the bolts on the anchor is in pretty bad shape. Apr 26, 2019
San Diego, CA
Perpetual Motion, 10d thin hands
Light Sabre, 10b flared fingers
Meteorite Crack, 10c fingers and thin hands
Left Banana Crack, 10b fingers and awkward hands around bulge
Right Banana Crack, 11a very steep thin hands
Frontal Lobotomy, 10b fingers lieback
For this reason me and my gold camalot hands feel 100% confident downgrading this climb to 10c. Would be tempted to go even further but I’ll acknowledge it was easier to flash it after belaying my friend on his onsight.
Also think of the above list as recommended climbs if you enjoyed Heart of Darkness. Except instead of a fancy algorithm doing the thinking, it’s just some dumb guy on the internet.
P.S. It’s a nice crack but ultimately I find myself enjoying the funkier jtree climbs moreso than a straight crack like this one. Dec 19, 2020
Bend, OR
San Diego, Ca
C4s or X4 sizes
0.3 (blue), 0.4, 0.75 x2, 0.5
that's basically what I placed Mar 22, 2021
Moab, UT
Moab, UT
CA
Maybe it would be prudent to install a game camera nearby and see what happens. Jan 20, 2022
Tucson, AZ