Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Mike Waugh & Jim Mathews, '86
Page Views: 1,767 total · 11/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Sep 19, 2005
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

The best way to approach this route is to climb Such A Line and then downclimb a gully 15' to the base of the route. The most difficult moves occur in the first 10' on the overhanging portion of the traverse but the difficulty is moderated by solid hand jams and edges for feet. If the climb was longer this would be a three star classic.

Protection

Cams to 2" provide solid pro for this traverse. An assortment of small to medium cams are necessary for an anchor.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
The first crack line I did in J-tree that felt as hard as similarly graded slabs... steeper than it looks, and powerful. My second summed it up:"I felt like a rock-star for the first few moves... then I had to jumar up to get back onto them."

A few 2-3" cams protect the hard climbing, and smaller cams and stoppers protect the climb after the corner is turned.

Nice climbing, and a lot harder than 'Chemical Warfare' on the Room To Shroom boulder in 'Wanderland' albeit of similar character. Jan 9, 2006
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
You may want to anchor the belayer for this one, a small vertical crack near the start works well with a tips sized cam and/or stoppers. Jan 25, 2009
Sling your first piece or two at the start, otherwise the rope might run into the crack and your cam could become irretrievably stuck when you turn the corner. Jan 9, 2012
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
can get up to the elevated start via easy scramble up the 2nd rocky gully to climber's left, the one with Cut Thin To Win at its bottom. that's also the most convenient easy descent for this part of the east face. so, not a big must to climb Such A Line first, though that's a great route, but which wouldn't require some of the gear needed for Around The World, esp if you want to pare down the lead rack for Such A Line Sep 30, 2014