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Routes in Minotaur Wall

Divine Wind T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fantasy of Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Minotaur T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mystic Knights of the Sea T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nittany Lion T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: Brian Sillasen, Todd Gordon & Alan Bartlett, March 1988
Page Views: 1,083 total, 7/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 1, 2005
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start off a boulder from the right or directly (harder) and make bouldery moves (crux) into the start of a nicely featured crack system. Once past the start the route is no harder than 5.7 or so in difficulty.

Downclimb to climber's left and take care, because while easy it's somewhat exposed. Perhaps best to lower or rap off for less-experienced and/or timid climbers.

One star out of five (maybe).

Location

Right of center on the Minotaur Wall (which sits in front of the Atlantis Wall), between Minotaur on the left and Nittany Lion on the right.

Protection

Gear to 3"

Photos

Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
Pretty easy hard moves at the bottom. Yes, I know what I just wrote. The only deal I saw with this climb is the pro all through the middle was in crappy rock. It's a bit of fun, nonetheless. Jan 5, 2012
shelby beardslee
29 Palms, CA
shelby beardslee   29 Palms, CA
I dont know how long ago the bolts on top of this were cut but they were not there today forcing us to downclimb to the left. Good climb though I do agree with everyone that all the work is on the bottom. Apr 15, 2011
DaveGustafson
Palm Desert, CA
  5.9+
DaveGustafson   Palm Desert, CA
  5.9+
Agree that 10c/d might be a little generous, but have to disagree with rating the route 5.7+. I found this route to be a one move wonder as everyone else says. Fun stuff. Mar 1, 2009
Ryan Kelly
work.
  5.7+
Ryan Kelly   work.
  5.7+
I'm not sure the TDS can really rate a climb like this well. It's a one move boulder problem (V1-?) on flat ground to 5.7-ish climbing. I guess I can see how someone might call it .10b/c if you do several face moves on the little crimps at the start. But using the huge undercling and a high foot in the pod will allow you to pull up to the big holds in 1 move. Powerful, but easy, not .10c/d by any means. 5.7+? Sounds good. Feb 10, 2008
Adam Kimmerly
5.10c/d
Adam Kimmerly  
5.10c/d
I found the start of this route to be significantly harder than 5.10a. Maybe a foothold has broken, or maybe you're supposed to use a cheat stone. I don't know. But the 5.10b to the right "Nittany Lion" felt significantly easier, putting the start of this route at 5.10c/d. Fun moves though. "Nittany Lion" is good too, and a bit more sustained. Both are worthwhile ticks if you're in the area. May 1, 2006