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Routes in Hemingway Buttress (East Face Right)

A Farewell to Poodles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Astropoodle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dangerous Poodle, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Easy As Pi T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
For Whom the Poodle Tolls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fusion Without Integrity T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Head Over Heals T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mind Blender T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mind Meld TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mind Over Matter T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Mind over Splatter T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Old Man and the Poodle, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ravens Do Nasty Things To My Bottom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 182 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Space Walk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Suspect Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 370 total · 2/month
Shared By: Woody Stark on May 4, 2005
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is located on the right portion of Hemingway Buttress. Approximately in the middle of the formation is a deep recess. Climb the somewhat loose rock up and into the recess then follow the crack system to the top. From below, it all looks a bit grim; however, we were somewhat surprised when we found the climb fun. There is a good deal of steming and excellent protection all the way.

Protection

Standard rack

Photos

Donno
Newport Beach
Donno   Newport Beach
Just led this and it was fun, but: there is a large detached flake at the start. This actually moved under the weight of my partner. If this breaks loose it could kill you and your belayer. Belayers, stand to the side. Oct 17, 2012

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