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Routes in Hemingway Buttress (East Face Right)

A Farewell to Poodles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Astropoodle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dangerous Poodle, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Easy As Pi T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
For Whom the Poodle Tolls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fusion Without Integrity T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Head Over Heals T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mind Blender T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mind Meld TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mind Over Matter T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Mind over Splatter T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Old Man and the Poodle, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ravens Do Nasty Things To My Bottom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 182 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Space Walk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Suspect Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Pat Brennan, Todd Gordon, Dave Vaught, Frank Bentwood & Quinn McCleod, January 1981
Page Views: 584 total · 4/month
Shared By: Woody Stark on May 4, 2005
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This route is located on the far right portion of Hemingway Buttress just to the right of Puzzlin' Evidence; it's the third route looking left to right. Climb past two bolts into a crack that leads directly to the top. It's somewhat sustained and presents a few interesting choices at crux points. If the leader chooses to climb up the large flake as I did, don't pull out on it. All three of our party though this was a very enjoyable route deserving of some stars it hadn't previously been given.


Standard rack, two bolts (3/8", 1/2")


Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
+2 stars for the moves, -2 stars for the rock = 0 stars total.

The flake at the crux will break off eventually - I could easily have pulled it off today. The moves are interesting, but it'll suck for the belayer (and possibly climber) when that thing blows. You need to use it as a handhold and a foothold at the crux.

Gear: 2 bolts, some small nuts, a small TCU (blue?) and one set of camalots (#0.5-#2) for the climb and anchor.

We couldn't find a straight forward descent directly back to the base through the gully to the climbers left, and instead headed up and right to the base of the Fillipino Wall and then traversed back to the base of the climb. Apr 8, 2007
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
When we did the first ascent (In 1981), the hold was "really loose" back then;...I reefed on it to try to break it off, but couldn't.....26 years later, most people who climb the route comment on the "loose" hold.......just how loose is it? many people have pulled on this hold and NOT pulled it off? I guess when it FINALLY does come off ( Year 2026?).....THEN the saga of the loose hold will be over;......(I find the loose hold just a curiousity......a quirky addition to an interesting climb.....)Fusion without Integrity is the result of the joining of a man and a prostitute(Thus the name...) Apr 9, 2007
LOL on the name Apr 9, 2007
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Nice info Todd, thanks for the story of the name! Hopefully the hold will last another 20 years :)

+1 stars for the integrity of the "really loose hold" Apr 10, 2007
Did this route again and the 2nd bolt is not really located in the natural (best) line of the route (put in off a ledge down and left rather than off the flake -- kinda wacky). The Flake is fine as long as you pull down, not out. OK route, rock not that bad actually.

The Descent is down and left off the back. Tunnel under the boulders as described in Josh West. Oct 23, 2011
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
If the bolt is in the wrong spot, and Randy or anyone else would like to put it in a better spot....please do;...with my permission and thanks......if it would make it a better, more enjoyable climb; be it... thanks. Todd Gordon Oct 23, 2011
Looks like the bolts were replaced -- in the original location -- not too long ago (Thanks to KP or ? did this).

So, moving it seems like too much work for a latte drinking, plastic pulling, sport climbing, convenience anchor, washed-up, never-was-been, like me. Oct 24, 2011
C Miller
C Miller   CA  
A decent climb, as mentioned, that's worth doing once.

Randy, I replaced the bolts about 12 years ago or so in the original holes - the lower one is 3/8" and the upper one is 1/2". Oct 24, 2011
Hi guys, I climbed this route 1/18/17 and the flake is STILL LOOSE! haha I tried to traverse left and mantle the slopey jug at first but then decided to stand on the flake and go through the bulge instead. I thought the pro after the second bolt wasn't the greatest but the climbing eases up anyways. Fun! Jan 11, 2017

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