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> Joshua Tree NP
> Lost Horse Area
> Lost Horse Rdsi…
> Hemingway Buttress
> Hemingway Buttress -…
Fusion Without Integrity
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 1.7 from 6
votes
Routes in Hemingway Buttress - E Face R
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A Farewell to Poodles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Astropoodle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dangerous Poodle, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Easy As Pi T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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For Whom the Poodle Tolls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fusion Without Integrity T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Head Over Heals T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Head Over Heals Pitch 2 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mind Blender T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mind Meld T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Mind Over Matter T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Mind Over Splatter T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Old Man and the Poodle, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Puzzlin' Evidence T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ravens Do Nasty Things To My Bottom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Route 182 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Space Walk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Suspect Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 34.02459, -116.17916 |
| FA: | Pat Brennan, Todd Gordon, Dave Vaught, Frank Bentwood & Quinn McCleod, January 1981 |
| Page Views: | 1,378 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Woody Stark on May 4, 2005 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Climb past two bolts into a crack that leads directly to the top. It's somewhat sustained and presents a few interesting choices at crux points. If the leader chooses to climb up the large flake as I did, don't pull out on it.
All three of our party though this was a very enjoyable route deserving of some stars it hadn't previously been given.
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