Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Chick Holtkamp and John Lakey, February 1978
Page Views: 913 total · 5/month
Shared By: Steve Powell on Apr 23, 2005
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

This the crack that is 3' left of M&Ms Plain and is a thin crack that goes to fists higher up. Coming in from the right is easier than the direct start on this route that is more a face climb than a crack climb.

Protection

Small wires down low, small cams higher up

Photos

Jordan Ramey
Calgary, Alberta
 
Jordan Ramey   Calgary, Alberta
 
We TR'ed this after M&M's Pain and highly recommend it for that. The pro looked very thin and difficult low, but great after the first 1/3. The crux is, of course, in the bottom third where the very thin difficult to place pro is located. Apr 6, 2008
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
This might be the hardest 10a on planet Earth. Be on the alert for creaky flakes on the left face. Nov 7, 2010
Matt Hagny
  5.10b
Matt Hagny  
  5.10b
No, Russ, it's not the hardest 10a on earth. Not even the hardest 10a in the park. Go see White Dopes on Punk for that. Followed by Axe of Dog.

I liked this climb. Technical and balancey. Yes, slightly sandbagged, even for J-tree. Oct 31, 2018