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Routes in Little Rock Candy Mountain

Bare Leigh Legal S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chicken Bones T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chicken Comb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Count Chocula TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flake Hickey T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kendall Mint Cake T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Lips Like Sugar T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Rock Candy Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
M & M's Peanut T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
M & Ms Plain T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
McStumpy Sandwich T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
My Balls feel like a Pair of Maracas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nestle's Crunch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Squirrel Roast T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sugar Daddy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Musketeers, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Chick Holtkamp and John Lakey, February 1978
Page Views: 875 total · 5/month
Shared By: Steve Powell on Apr 23, 2005
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This the crack that is 3' left of M&Ms Plain and is a thin crack that goes to fists higher up. Coming in from the right is easier than the direct start on this route that is more a face climb than a crack climb.


Small wires down low, small cams higher up


Jordan Ramey
Calgary, Alberta
Jordan Ramey   Calgary, Alberta
We TR'ed this after M&M's Pain and highly recommend it for that. The pro looked very thin and difficult low, but great after the first 1/3. The crux is, of course, in the bottom third where the very thin difficult to place pro is located. Apr 6, 2008
Russ Walling
Russ Walling
This might be the hardest 10a on planet Earth. Be on the alert for creaky flakes on the left face. Nov 7, 2010
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
Both M&M's Peanut and M&M's Plain approx 47 ft tall, bec possible to lead both routes with a leader tied in to each end of one 60 m rope and afterward have just enough rope to simultaneously lower both leaders back down to base. Mar 19, 2013
I can rub my tummy while patting my head. I think that is both more interesting and way safer than your "possible double leader lowering 47' 60m belay base beta". Mar 20, 2013
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
not true. rubbing tummy and patting head is definitely not more interesting than the PDLL4760BBB. what's the longest you've rubbed and patted, Murf? 30 sec? a whole min? see, not that interesting. and the latter is quite safe with two belayers. even with one belayer, that too could be made safe by anchoring the one belayer and by having a second person kneel in front of that belayer and perform part of the task on one of the devices dangling from the standing belayer's crotch Mar 20, 2013
So ignoring the fellatio reference, your beta for 4 people (2 belayers, 2 climbers) is to use 1 rope for both routes? I take it all back, that is *so* interesting. You, Sean, are a pioneer in the field of maximizing the person to rope ratio! You should make a list of all routes in the park you can do that way. Mar 21, 2013
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
merely said this and the adjacent route are 47 ft tall (both now updated from 35 ft to 50 ft by someone btw), known fairly precisely bec our 60 was a few ft short of midpt after lowering on one, that it'd therefore be possible to lead both routes at same time and be lowered with one 60. didn't urge or demand someone to do it. thanks for the props and recognition, tho wasn't looking for that Mar 22, 2013

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