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Routes in Castle Rock - North Side

Bella Lugosi T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Belly Dancer T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bride of Frankenstein TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chimney Sweep T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Count Dracula T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Diabetics T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Diagnostics T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ground Finale T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Half Crack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Junction Chimney T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Love at First Bite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Music Box T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Point Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
That Old Soft Shoe T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Transylvania Twist T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Two Point Crack T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Mike Paul (?)
Page Views: 2,392 total · 15/month
Shared By: Andy on Apr 22, 2005
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Occupied Campsite Rule In Effect! Details


This is the crack left of Bella Lugosi. An easy start leads to some wide and flaring jams with some helpful features on the face to the left.

It feels a bit strenuous for a few moves.


Medium to large cams, gear and/or long sling for anchor


Woody Stark
Woody Stark  
The guide has this route at eight. Locker and I have it at 10a. It's an excellent route: good protection all the way and quite sustained. Oct 4, 2005
Yucca Valley, CA
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
I have done this route before and remembered it from the past as being more difficult than 5.8. Today while climbing it I debated with Woody if 5.9+ might suit it better because 5.9+ can be almost anything from 5.9 to 5.10d out here... So ambiguous... But after taking a few good ones, I even decked one at the start, I thing I agree with the Woodman... Whatever you want to rate it, with all of the other climbs on the same formation, it is well worht the longer drive to do them... And don't forget to do "That Old Soft Shoe"...It could be that we were just pumped from doing other routes I suppose...maybe Woody, we could go do it fresh and see???... Oct 5, 2005
"The hardest 5.8 in the park!"

There is a trick to it and it may be height or hand size dependent.I've always felt 5.8 was fair, but nobody else did. Oct 5, 2005
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Difficult climbing for me down low. Borderline off-width. Feb 23, 2007
Ryan Kelly
Ryan Kelly   work.
This route sucks ass. I'm willing to entertain the idea that I climbed it on a bad day, and the crack usually isn't as slick. I found slimy, flared "jams" for a good section of the bottom. A climb to miss for sure. Did I mention this climb sucks ass? Oct 28, 2007
Portland, OR
Obi   Portland, OR
Lots and lots of BD #3's helps with this climb Nov 5, 2007
Ryan Kelly
Ryan Kelly   work.
Was in the area so I decided to be fair and give it another shot. My opinion still stands, the slimy flared jams are terrible. This route is all yours Obi, I will never set hand in it again. May 5, 2008
jim schuring
jim schuring   pennsylvania
did this climb week trying to fit one more easy climb in for the day unfortunately we wanted to do the 5.6 so it felt alot alot harder but once we relooked up the route it made sense at 5.8 + if you are breaking in the grade you could sew it up but do not miss it Mar 14, 2010
not worth climbing Apr 19, 2010
Brandt Allen
Joshua Tree, Cal
Brandt Allen   Joshua Tree, Cal
An excellent 5.8 route if you have any crack climbing technique. Apr 19, 2010
C Miller
C Miller   CA  
Named after a song by the band Genesis from their album "Nursery Cryme" (1971). Apr 19, 2010
Newport Beach
Donno   Newport Beach
I'm surprised at the negative comments. This is a great, safe route that I usually recommend to aspiring 5.8 leaders. I love Music Box. Apr 20, 2010
5.9 for sure. The jams are very technical, your hands and fingers must get deep and just so to get any purchase. I whipped four times at the start and then taped up. Tape made all the difference. Mar 16, 2011
This climb is by far the hardest "5.8" I have ever done. That said, it has some fun movement on it, and my climbing partner really enjoyed following it. His thought was that if you can fist jam #3 blue Camelots, its 5.8. If your hands are smaller, then its 5.something else. I tend to agree with that assessment. Nov 28, 2011
Richard Shore
Richard Shore  
Anyone who thinks this is harder than 5.8 has either dwarf hands or poor jamming technique. The routes inclusion in the 60-easy/favorites guide lures unsuspecting climbers who probably think "it's only 5.8." It was beautiful cupped hands for me most of the way with an occasional fist or forearm jam. I didn't find it slimy or flaring. I do have a #4 camalot-sized fist, though. Freesoloed onsight. Nov 28, 2011
Dominic Metcalf
Leesburg, VA
Dominic Metcalf   Leesburg, VA
Sandbag! Definitely agree with most that this is harder than 5.8. The route is very sustained and fun, but don't come looking for a warm-up on this one! Mar 12, 2012
Total sandbag for 5.8. Very strenuous, takes bigger gear (3s and 4s) Nov 17, 2012

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