Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Mike Paul (?)
Page Views: 2,488 total · 15/month
Shared By: Andy on Apr 22, 2005
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


61 Opinions

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Access Issue: Occupied Campsite Rule In Effect! Details

Description

This is the crack left of Bella Lugosi. An easy start leads to some wide and flaring jams with some helpful features on the face to the left.

It feels a bit strenuous for a few moves.

Protection

Medium to large cams, gear and/or long sling for anchor

Photos

Woody Stark
  5.10a
Woody Stark  
  5.10a
The guide has this route at eight. Locker and I have it at 10a. It's an excellent route: good protection all the way and quite sustained. Oct 4, 2005
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
 
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
 
I have done this route before and remembered it from the past as being more difficult than 5.8. Today while climbing it I debated with Woody if 5.9+ might suit it better because 5.9+ can be almost anything from 5.9 to 5.10d out here... So ambiguous... But after taking a few good ones, I even decked one at the start, I thing I agree with the Woodman... Whatever you want to rate it, with all of the other climbs on the same formation, it is well worht the longer drive to do them... And don't forget to do "That Old Soft Shoe"...It could be that we were just pumped from doing other routes I suppose...maybe Woody, we could go do it fresh and see???... Oct 5, 2005
"The hardest 5.8 in the park!"

There is a trick to it and it may be height or hand size dependent.I've always felt 5.8 was fair, but nobody else did. Oct 5, 2005
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.8+
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.8+
Difficult climbing for me down low. Borderline off-width. Feb 23, 2007
Ryan Kelly
work.
  5.8+
Ryan Kelly   work.
  5.8+
This route sucks ass. I'm willing to entertain the idea that I climbed it on a bad day, and the crack usually isn't as slick. I found slimy, flared "jams" for a good section of the bottom. A climb to miss for sure. Did I mention this climb sucks ass? Oct 28, 2007
Obi
Portland, OR
  5.8+
Obi   Portland, OR
  5.8+
Lots and lots of BD #3's helps with this climb Nov 5, 2007
Ryan Kelly
work.
  5.8+
Ryan Kelly   work.
  5.8+
Was in the area so I decided to be fair and give it another shot. My opinion still stands, the slimy flared jams are terrible. This route is all yours Obi, I will never set hand in it again. May 5, 2008
jim schuring
pennsylvania
jim schuring   pennsylvania
did this climb week trying to fit one more easy climb in for the day unfortunately we wanted to do the 5.6 so it felt alot alot harder but once we relooked up the route it made sense at 5.8 + if you are breaking in the grade you could sew it up but do not miss it Mar 14, 2010
not worth climbing Apr 19, 2010
Brandt Allen
Joshua Tree, Cal
Brandt Allen   Joshua Tree, Cal
An excellent 5.8 route if you have any crack climbing technique. Apr 19, 2010
C Miller
CA
  5.8
C Miller   CA  
  5.8
Named after a song by the band Genesis from their album "Nursery Cryme" (1971). Apr 19, 2010
Donno
Newport Beach
 
Donno   Newport Beach
 
I'm surprised at the negative comments. This is a great, safe route that I usually recommend to aspiring 5.8 leaders. I love Music Box. Apr 20, 2010
Tradiban
  5.9
Tradiban  
  5.9
5.9 for sure. The jams are very technical, your hands and fingers must get deep and just so to get any purchase. I whipped four times at the start and then taped up. Tape made all the difference. Mar 16, 2011
MAR
  5.9+
MAR  
  5.9+
This climb is by far the hardest "5.8" I have ever done. That said, it has some fun movement on it, and my climbing partner really enjoyed following it. His thought was that if you can fist jam #3 blue Camelots, its 5.8. If your hands are smaller, then its 5.something else. I tend to agree with that assessment. Nov 28, 2011
Richard Shore
  5.7+
Richard Shore  
  5.7+
Anyone who thinks this is harder than 5.8 has either dwarf hands or poor jamming technique. The routes inclusion in the 60-easy/favorites guide lures unsuspecting climbers who probably think "it's only 5.8." It was beautiful cupped hands for me most of the way with an occasional fist or forearm jam. I didn't find it slimy or flaring. I do have a #4 camalot-sized fist, though. Freesoloed onsight. Nov 28, 2011
Dominic Metcalf
Leesburg, VA
 
Dominic Metcalf   Leesburg, VA
 
Sandbag! Definitely agree with most that this is harder than 5.8. The route is very sustained and fun, but don't come looking for a warm-up on this one! Mar 12, 2012
Canon
  5.9
Canon  
  5.9
Total sandbag for 5.8. Very strenuous, takes bigger gear (3s and 4s) Nov 17, 2012