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Routes in Anasazi Wall

Ancestral Puebloans T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ancient Ones T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mushroom Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Physical Graffiti S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Song Remains the Same, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bob Gaines, Russell Romero, January 2005
Page Views: 1,194 total, 8/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is the prominent crack in the corner just left of Physical Graffiti. Mostly hand size to a brutal offwidth finish! There is a mushroom shaped rock at the base. You can rap from the bolts at the top of Physical Graffiti (80 feet).

Protection

.75 to #5 camalot or equivalent (I used a 3.5, 4 , and 5 camalot at the widening top section)

Photos

Bob Gaines  
 
I think left side in is the way to go.

No easy way to do it....pure offwidth crux! Jan 7, 2014
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
I had to try this upon first seeing it. Still very crumbly as of Dec. 2013. I had fun on the first half and am usually pretty good with OW, but no matter what I tried I could not get off the ledge with the overhanging OW, pull on hueco? right side, left side in? could not stem it, no toe-heel, drop knee on left, ended up down climbing route. Jan 6, 2014
J Smith
  5.10a
J Smith  
  5.10a
This route is still cleaning up, felt quite grainy. I climbed it a few days after Kye, still felt 10a to me so I don't think the missing block makes it any harder. Dec 15, 2012
Kye
Joshua Tree, CA
 
Kye   Joshua Tree, CA
 
Fun OW with cruxy moves at the beginning and end; dirty/chossy in places but only because it doesn't get climbed enough! I pulled off a decent sized block in the upper half, probably making the route closer to 10b. Nice warm up before Physical Graffiti ;) Dec 7, 2012
Nick Sullens
Yosemite/ Bishop
  5.10b
Nick Sullens   Yosemite/ Bishop
  5.10b
Getting into the wide is the crux, protects well. Feb 10, 2012