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Routes in Anasazi Wall

Ancestral Puebloans T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ancient Ones T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mushroom Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Physical Graffiti S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Song Remains the Same, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Pitch 1: (TR) Bob Gaines, Erik Murdoch, December 2004, Complete Route: Bob Gaines, Russell Romero, January 2005
Page Views: 5,367 total, 34/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Best done in 2 short pitches, although you can lead it in one if you really watch out for rope drag. The first pitch hand traverses up and right across a dike past 4 bolts to a 2 bolt alcove belay. Pitch 2 traverses left, then up steeper face climbing to the top.(6 bolts and 2 fixed pins) Bolted belay/rap anchor. Rap 80 feet.

Protection

10 bolts and 2 fixed pins
mhagny
  5.10c/d
mhagny  
  5.10c/d
5 stars on a 4-star scale! Best sport route I've done in Josh, by far. Kudos to Bob for another terrific line, with bolts exactly where you want/need them! I liked doing it as 2 pitches. Seems natural, and the belay is very comfy. 1 day ago
Tradiban  
 
Good stuff, too short to do in 2 pitches, just back clean first bolt on left traverse. Still growing up and shedding some choss on the upper half. Fyi, would be very hard to rap and clean. May 4, 2016
Richard Shore
  5.11a
Richard Shore  
  5.11a
I'll go against the grain here and suggest doing it two pitches. You don't have to deal with extending slings/backcleaning, and you get to enjoy the cool cave belay station and swap leads with your partner if you so desire.

Pulled a baseball-sized chunk off the dike hand-traverse on P1 yesterday, near the 4th bolt. Also busted some small pieces off the foot-traverse dike at the finish of P2. Still cleaning up a bit, but truly a fantastic climb. Looks much easier from the ground! P2 was burl. Apr 16, 2012
I'm late to the party as I just got on this in December 2011 (after Bob pointed me in toward the route). Brilliant climb. Dec 11, 2011
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
TR session (thank god!) this baby has 'em all. Technical crux, and burl crux. It's up to you to see where they are. Recommended to push it in one pitch with long draws as Randy suggested. Easy feed for leader and still safe for the follower.

This is an instant classic! Nov 6, 2011
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Stellar route. 1 pitch is the way to go, clipping the first 6 with long slings. I also unclipped the first bolt on the second half of the route, rope ran fine. Nov 5, 2011
chinos
 
chinos  
 
Kick ass route with a nice location Nov 20, 2009
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10d
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10d
Absolutely steller! Destined to become a well travelled classic once this gets published in a book. I did it in two pitches, but now that I know the route I might try one pitch the next time. Felt 10d to me this way, and even in one pitch you can get a sit-down rest at the anchor....

The route is safely bolted, for both leader and follower (despite the traversing nature)

The dike traverse felt about 10b/c. Really fun climbing! Second "pitch" felt around 10d, with the crux right in the middle of the headwall. The upper roof had big jugs, but it takes a little energy to find the path of least resistance. After clipping the last bolt and pulling the roof, two closely spaced pins lead left to the anchor.

Note of caution: my second pumped out and fell off the last roof. She swung left under the pin and it was extremely difficult for her to get back to the easiest part of the roof. Not much one can do to alleviate this, but just something to know....

Sun all afternoon, and I suspect sheltered from the wind as well.

Follow the directions on the Anasazi Wall page and it'll lead you right to this climb. You'll pass the popular Funny Bone/Norweigen Wood routes on the N. Face of Snickers, and just keep walking up the valley and it ends at this wall and route. Nov 25, 2008
Will S
Joshua Tree
  5.10d
Will S   Joshua Tree
  5.10d
End up on this about once per season. It's really a great route, hasn't gained the attention of the masses yet, and bakes in the sun. The dike holds can be harder to use than you expect, especially for their size. The smearing at the end of P1 seems to be cleaning up nicely. Nov 11, 2008
tony grice
  5.10d
tony grice  
  5.10d
DO it! you'll love it. Delicate first pitch, juggy overhanging second. Nov 13, 2006
Randy
  5.11a
Randy  
  5.11a
A very fun route. We did it in one pitch, which is recommended. 10d/11a as such. 4 of 5 stars. If you want to treat it as a sport route and lower off (or to TR others), take a 10 foot extendo or a few extra runners to lengthen the anchor so rope runs free.

Leader should take about 6-8 shoulder length runners to use instead of draws. (P1) Use runners on all 4 bolts. (P2) Don't clip the belay anchors. After clipping 2nd bolt (with a runner), back clean 1st bolt on 2nd pitch. After clipping bolt above roof (again with a runner), back clean the one below the roof. Runner on two fixed pins (or long draws). Rope drag will be no problem. May 2, 2005
Murf
  5.10d
Murf  
  5.10d
The dike for pitch one is wonderful feature, complete with mica flakes and embedded quartz. You are never sure what shape the holds are going to be on it. The traverse and groove on P2 are harder than they look from the ground, while the roof is easier than it looks. I'd go 4 of 5 *'s for this one, Bob's eye for quality didn't fail him on this one.

Done in 1 pitch gives a crux for all types of climbers, the dike traverse on P1 will frustrate those you have difficulty with delicate footwork and intricate handholds. P2 is powerful and will sap the strength of those unused to steep pulling. As KC mentions backclean the first bolt and use shoulder length runners for the single pitch push. Apr 25, 2005
Kenton Card
Washington DC
Kenton Card   Washington DC
What a great climb. I would push it to 11A if you link the two pitches. It was very cool, just try to back clean the first bolt, and use runners. Apr 24, 2005