Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Feudal Wall (Right Side)

Arizona Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Burning Man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
California Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Castles Burning T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dry Lake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dum Roodle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
El Rey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mikado, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Minion T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Noriega Does Panama S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Panama Canal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Panther Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Pet Sounds T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Pet or Meat T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Princess T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Return of General Noriega, The TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Socrates Sucks TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whispering Chickens S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Tom Atherton & Todd Gordon, November 1989
Page Views: 701 total · 5/month
Shared By: Woody Stark on Apr 8, 2005
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Around the corner at the east end of the Feudal Wall and to the right of the Panther crack is a left facing lie-back crack and face. Climb to a bolt about fifteen feet above. The crux is getting by this bolt. They key is the hidden crack well to your right. If you can't reach it, the difficulty goes way up.

Protection

3 bolts, gear to 2", 2 bolt anchor/rap

Photos

toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
There are now three bolts on this climb. The climb originally had 2 bolts and a piton up higher, but the piton disappeared and was replaced by a bolt. Now it has three bolts. ....... Dec 16, 2012
Richard Shore
  5.10b R
Richard Shore  
  5.10b R
Only 2 bolts on this rig. Looks like the one that replaced a fixed pin has been chopped and patched. Crux is getting to the "first" bolt, a good distance above your last gear (#1 or 2 tcu). You probably wouldn't deck if you fell, but it'd be one hell of a whip. R rated for sure, just like it is given in the Vogel guide.

Bolted anchor equipped for rappel as of 12/2011, also has an easy walkoff. Dec 25, 2011
Justin Slagle
Palm Desert, CA
 
Justin Slagle   Palm Desert, CA
 
did the climb today, there was three bolts after the crack, the top one looked newer, and i was extremely happy it was there. Feb 7, 2010
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.10b
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.10b
I have led this route and enjoyed it very much. This past week I seconded Woody on it. It has a really cool move requiring some balancing on somewhat grainy slab at the crux. Beyond that it is pretty straight forward. A few draws, no anchors. Easy walkoff! Apr 12, 2005
C Miller
CA
  5.10b
C Miller   CA  
  5.10b
Despite being a little grainy this is a fun route that's worth doing. The first bolt replaces a fixed pin placed on the FA. One and a half/two stars out of five. Apr 12, 2005
Woody Stark
  5.10b
Woody Stark  
  5.10b
Fine route but tricky. At the crux be sure to reach to your far right across the face and feel for the hidden crack. Without that to pull on, it will be a good deal harder. I think most of the gentle sex will find the move an eleven something or other. I failed many times before I found the key. After I made the move successfully and was reaching for the upper bolt, the damn wind blew me of, and I got to do it again. Apr 12, 2005