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Routes in Nuclear Reactor Rock

Chernobyl Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Helicopter Memory Farts T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Nuclear Winter TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nuke the Poodles TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Nuke the Whales T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stan And Ollie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
We''ll Get Them Little Pricks (AKA Cunning Linquist) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Jacques Le Coq, Ro Bear & Gil Bear, 10/90
Page Views: 126 total, 1/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Apr 9, 2005
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Up to overlap and, rather tricky, onto the slab above with the first bolt for protection. Rough friction, somewhat nervously, leads to the second bolt. More friction trending a little leftwards leads to a horizontal and small cam. Over the next overlap to finish. Possible groundfall before second bolt.

Protection

2 bolts (3/8"), medium cams for an anchor

Photos

Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.8-
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.8-
Ah! Another fun one... The start can cause some frazzle if one is not used to Jtree friction... I personally feel the 5.9 is over rating the climb... Currently the rock has some loose sh*t on it... A little wind and a few more feet this season will take care of it!!!... Oct 26, 2005