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Routes in Ranger Station Rock
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4U2DO2 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X |
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Barbara Bush T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bush Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hercules T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Open Casket Funeral TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Owatafooliam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pegleg T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pirates of the Carabiner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Polly Wants a Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ranger Rendezvous T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Scaried Treasure T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Swain In The Breeze T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Swain Lake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Swain Song T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Swatchbuckler T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wall of 10,000 Holds T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| GPS: | 34.01817, -116.1907 |
| FA: | Todd Swain (onsight solo) 4/1985 |
| Page Views: | 2,025 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | vincent L. on Feb 2, 2005 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route is about 200 feet to the right of Bush Crack. It can be approached by traversing right from Bush Crack or perhaps better, by walking on the road around to the right of the ranger station and then directly up to the climb.
Start by climbing up a grovely crack until you can get to the left side of the main face. Clip a few bolts with no hangers (wired nuts over the studs) until you can reach the upper part of the route that consists of climbing HUGE, fun buckets to the top of this sweet formation.
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