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Routes in Ranger Station Rock

4U2DO2 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Barbara Bush T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bush Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hercules T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Open Casket Funeral TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Owatafooliam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pegleg T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pirates Of The Carabiner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Polly Wants A Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ranger Rendezvous T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Scaried Treasure T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Swain In The Breeze T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Swain Lake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Swain Song T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Swatchbuckler T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wall of 10,000 Holds T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
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Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Todd Swain 1985
Page Views: 947 total · 6/month
Shared By: vincent L. on Feb 2, 2005
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Vogel gives the route 2 stars and gives a decent description of how to get there - it's about 200 feet right of Bush Crack. Start by climbing up a grovely crack until you can get to the main face. Clip a few bolts with no hangers until you can reach the upper part of the route that consists of climbing HUGE fun buckets to the top of this sweet formation. I loved the route and the view I got at the top. Climbing the huge buckets was fun too. A nice chill, out of the way route that you will NEVER find anyone on. 5.6 ...send it buddies!


4 bolts with no hangers. Medium size cams for the anchor.


Chris D
the couch
Chris D   the couch
I think the initial crack up to the ledge would have been easier if I'd liebacked it, but wanted to get good gear, so climbed the awkward off-width with arm bars and foot cams. Some work.

Above the ledge this route somehow reminded me of the SW Corner of Headstone Rock. The hanger-less buttonheads make for good pro when you slide a small nut on them.

Fun route, and a good way to start the day. Apr 26, 2010
Sliding nuts over bolt studs adds some charm to this route. There are now bolts with rings on top; a 70m just lets you rap into the gully to climber's left. Feb 16, 2016
Costa Mesa, CA
Howard   Costa Mesa, CA
Not sure if having right side in was the problem, but the offset section had poor feet and was very sustained. Felt nowhere close to 5.6 to me. Oct 9, 2016
Atascadero, CA
FrankPS   Atascadero, CA
The initial crack is more like 5.8 or 9 to get to the ledge. Nov 21, 2017

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