PRINT: Rock Climb Rock Candy, Joshua Tree National Park

Rock Candy

5.9+, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 3.1 from 239 votes
FA: Ed Kaufer and Keith Cunning, 1979
California > Joshua Tree NP > Lost Horse Area > Rock Garden Valley > Rock Garden Valley -…

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

The climb can be started directly under the first bolt via a large undercling flake (5.10), but the normal start is about 10' to the left, and about halfway to the start of Rock-a-Lot.

Above the flake a thin horizontal crack provides protection to the first bolt. Move up and left to the second bolt where the angle steepens and a thin seam starts (microwires handy here). Pull some thin moves and then hit a finger crack which leans to the right higher before ending below the top. Two more bolts protect fun, positive edges to the top.

Bolted anchor on top with a rap from anchors atop Split Personality.

High quality rock, fun moves and the continuous nature of the climbing make this a standout route of the area. Four stars out of five.

Location

This route is located on the attractive face left of an obvious zig-zag crack system (Double Dogleg) on the furthest right portion of the Shorter Wall.

Protection

4 bolts, pro to 1.5 inches, bolted anchor on top (all bolts 1/2")

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Left climber is on "Lewd and Lascivious Conduct" 5.10c, right climber is on "Rock Candy" 5.9

Good climb!

rock candy.

Greg benton down low on the route.<br>
submitted by 5.10b4me

Greg benton down low on the route. submitted by 5.10b4me

rock candy

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Woody Stark

I feel 5.9 is a little light for this route. It felt more like 10a to me. It's a fine route, and I think I'll do it again, possibly on a midwinter day when it's snowing and the top-ropers are all huddled in their cribs sucking on their binkies. May 20, 2004

Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake

5.10a

Excellent quality route, keeps you thinking the whole way. 5.10a IMHO. Jan 29, 2005

Scott Edlin
boulder, co

very fun for a toprope. might be a bit heady for a lead. sustained, long, and continuous. Apr 12, 2006

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR

The best route on the wall IMO. Jul 25, 2006

Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA

I agree, this was our favorite when we stopped by. Definitely deserves the 3 stars in the Vogel guide, perhaps more? May 19, 2009

Tom Caldwell
Clemson, S.C.

All of 5.9 and heady. Double C3's are useful. One of my favorites in the park. Feb 18, 2010

Stormeh

5.10a PG13

I would say all of 10a, and quite serious as well. When compared to Loose Lady, you have to call this thing 10a, and the pro is worse as well. Very sustained. Great route! Apr 18, 2011

Vitaliy

5.9

The direct start is a strenuous under-cling to a reachy tiny hold with very slippery foot holds. I tried it on TR and failed numerous times, Dave Mayville [too-strong] cruised right through the direct start and said it was just a 10d :) Nov 1, 2011

Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA

5.9+ PG13

Yeah - if you lead this from the left side like me, don't forget to clip the first bolt like I did. Was pretty sketched out on a #00 master cam (at the hand traverse before going up) and a sketchy nut before arriving at the second bolt and clipping it. Makes my hands sweat thinking about it... If you clip the first bolt, it probably isn't as rough of a lead mentally. This one was all mental for me, although the movement did get a little thin for a while. May 1, 2012

David S
San Francisco, CA

5.9+

Did this on TR yesterday. Started up from the right of the undercling, rather than to the left, which everyone else seems to suggest. It was a neat variation, and you can get some solid, but thin, feet on the tiny rail there.

I'd call this a 5.10a anywhere else, but when in Rome... May 25, 2014

Stone Adventures
Joshua Tree, CA

Did the direct start, pretty sketch. Harder than most of the 10A's I have done in the park. Scary runouts. Awesome route though! Jan 17, 2016

Howard
Costa Mesa, CA

I agree with David S. It's close enough to being direct to start from just to the right of directly below and the climbing makes perfect sense when viewed from there. Above all, it follows the bolted line well. Oct 17, 2016

Mike Womack
Orcutt, CA

This is a must do if in the area. I used a BD .3 and .4 and peanuts and was able to sew it up pretty well. Direct start was fun yet thuggy unlike the delicate climbing above. Apr 24, 2017

Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR

5.10a

Geez. This would totally be a 10b/c sport route at Smith. I started from the right to the first bolt (I guess you're supposed to go from left but whatevs) and found the high bolt quite easily. If you venture too far left before the final bolt you're hosed.

Use the bolts at the top to top-rope this route. Rap from the station to the climber's right. Feb 6, 2018

J J
CA

5.9+

My favorite in this area. Protects well with small to medium gear - nothing larger than 1” needed. Solid line. Nov 1, 2020

B O
San Diego, CA

Unique route. As many have stated it’s protectable. Be confident leading josh 9’s, thin lines, and have moderate edging technique. If you’ve climbed WOTWS & tossed greens, you’ll be set.

Gear Beta for those interested: 00 metolius UL/60cm, 2 bolts, next piece is 12 ft above 2nd bolt. Can nest 2x metolius 2 UL. #6 astronut, 0 metolius ultralight, another 2 metolius, then venture to the last two bolts.

Overall, my favorite climb in the area. TR on bolts and rap to right over split personality. Mar 28, 2021

Gabriel Poulin
Atlanta, GA

TR anchors at the top are loose. Nov 2, 2022