Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Vagmarken Buttress Left

Podium of Indecision, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vagabonds T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Vagmarken Buttress T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Wind Tower T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: Herb Laeger, Eve Laeger & Dave Houser, June 1980
Page Views: 627 total, 4/month
Shared By: Bo Johnston on Mar 10, 2005
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

If you're looking for the longest climb on Vagmarken, this is the one. Start just left of the Buttress prow in a crack dihedral the shoots a straight line up the central face of the rock. Midway up you'll find a bolt and then moves slightly right to easier climing to the top. Caution! There is loose rock on this route; especially the large, tempting flake just by the move after the bolt. To descend; scramble up to the top and head right to drop down the right side of the Buttress on some 3rd and 4th class terrain back to your gear.

Protection

There is one 1/4" buttonhead bolt midway up the route and Pro to 2". No fixed anchors on top but some midsized cams will work for an anchor.
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
if that rusty buttonhead breaks, which protects the steep crux moves pulling on crispy flakes, the resulting long runout fall would be ugly. walk off, or rap via the bolted anchor at the upper left end of the finishing shoulder, the same one near the topout of Wind Tower Mar 6, 2015