PRINT: Rock Climb Deep Throat, Joshua Tree National Park

Deep Throat

5.9, Trad, 40 ft (12 m),

Avg: 2.8 from 37 votes
FA: John Bachar, Tobin Sorenson, Bill Antel & Craig Parsley, 1975
California > Joshua Tree NP > Central Joshua… > Echo Rock Area > Mounds

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

There seems to be two different ways to do this unique route - the first way involves coming out of the hole from inside the rock and then worming into position to tackle the short wide section of crack above.

The second method is to grab the bottom of the hole (it's possible to sling the hole for pro), mantle up and then reach into the crack to establish yourself. Once in the wide crack above (4" pro is helpful) a few offwidth moves give way to easier climbing as the angle kicks back on the way to the top.

Short and engaging, this is one of a handful of routes at Joshua Tree that offers totally unique movement not typically found on other climbs of the area.

Location

High atop the Mounds formation, on a blocky section dubbed the "Porno Block", is where you'll find this short, southwest-facing route.

Approach via slabs from the right (southeast) to reach a spacious ledge system which also accesses the routes Caligula and Behind the Green Door. Keep walking left to the base of an obvious widening crack above a distinct hole in the rock.

Protection

Gear to 4 inches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Deep Throat, threading through the hole and thereby using the rock itself as the first pro.

Deep Throat

The novelty of all novelties

"Deep Throat". Photo by Blitzo.

Emily threading through the rock hole, across the abyss, with a lunging boost off of the inside ledge. Jan 2017.

sling your gear

Deep Throat, 5.9

Novelty

Awkward moves lead to tough offwidth moves. Finger crack on left above roof helps. And #5 at beginning of offwidth

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ian McEleney
Mammoth Lakes, CA

I've done this a third way. Climb the crack left of the hole through the roof, using the hole to get established on the face. However it's done, a fun little route. Mar 3, 2011

Steven Lee
El Segundo, CA

Careful with the last large block just before getting down to the ledge with the rap anchor. Stay far left even though the step down to the white/dark mottled patina is more insecure and angled.

You don't realize it teeter-totters while you are on it. My friend pointed it out to me, and I watched that thing see-saw at least 2 inches back and forth as another friend stepped on it. Very spooky. He wasn't very far from the fulcrum either. Oct 23, 2017

Jim H
Pasadena, CA

I advise bringing a #5 cam too for the crux. Jan 16, 2018

Daniel Kaye
Denver, CO

Wow. From the ground I thought that hole was gonna be much bigger, and the crack a nice hand size, HA!

I found the first move very commiting, due to the 20' chasum beneath the start the photos don't really show, and all the chossy rock getting to the hole. We were able to build an anchor for the belayer and lean out to sling the hole before starting, but if you didn't do that or bring a stick-clip (is that sacrilege to recommend?) I'd call it at least PG13 to the first move.

So I survived with a single #4 by: (1) protecting crux, (2) putting small gear above crux, (3) pulling crux, (4) looking up at 20' low angle offwidth above with no way to protect it, (5) downclimbing crux, (6) grabbing #4 again, (7) pulling crux second time, and then (8) climbing rest off climb with my close buddy #4.

So in summary, I would have felt super safe with a #5 for crux, and (2) #4s for the upper part. Might post a video later for anyone interested in those shenanigans.

Also I second what Steven said, that's the most seesaw boulder I've ever unintentionally surfed on. Jan 15, 2020

James Barnett

Remember doing this in the late 70's
Fun route, sack up and do it,
No cams BITD Jan 16, 2020

Gumby King
The Gym

Two Number 5's to stitch. #4 works, but its often tipping out, but there are solid placements. Nov 6, 2022

Jamie S
Folsom, CA

HEAD'S UP! The huge rock that teeter-totters getting down to the rap, is a big danger as when it goes, it could take you with it. I watched it tetter totter when my friend stepped on it. Mar 24, 2024