PRINT: Rock Climb Muffin Bandits, Joshua Tree National Park

Muffin Bandits

5.10b, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
FA: Dennis Yates and Roger Linfield
California > Joshua Tree NP > Wonderland of R… > Wonderland North > Middle Kingdom > Techulator

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

The most striking route on the middle section of The Techulator is the hanging dihedral of Muffin Bandits. Apparently the first ascent party climbed directly into the dihedral via the thin crack which is the lower continuation of the crack which comes down out of the dihedral. This start may be a bit loose. Climb the dihedral via an interesting combination of finger jamming, stemming and face holds. It is also possible to climb into the dihedral from horizontals to a knob just below the left end of a ledge which is at the bottom of the dihedral (5.10b?).

Protection

Standard rack to 2"

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

"Muffin Bandits". Photo by Blitzo.

Upper dihedral of Muffin Bandits.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Sean
Oak Park, CA

direct start via thin crack and a vertical long flake along adjacent right, exciting fun, and felt about 5.9 so thankfully not the crux. that start pretty much unprotected tho. managed to fit in a shallow med cam sideway halfway up the thin crack, but very marginal. exit right at top to gear anchor w small-med cams and optional BD Blue #3. backside descent involves downclimbing a short 5.6 crack, very featured but careful with two of the biggest jugs that are fractured May 4, 2025