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Routes in Little Rock Candy Mountain

Bare Leigh Legal S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chicken Bones T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chicken Comb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Count Chocula TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flake Hickey T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kendall Mint Cake T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Lips Like Sugar T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Rock Candy Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
M & M's Peanut T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
M & Ms Plain T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
McStumpy Sandwich T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
My Balls feel like a Pair of Maracas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nestle's Crunch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Squirrel Roast T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sugar Daddy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Musketeers, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Chick Holtkamp and John Lakey, February 1978
Page Views: 1,211 total · 8/month
Shared By: Graham Roff on Feb 26, 2005
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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A short and awkward climb up the most obvious of the two cracks on this face. The crux comes about ten feet off the ground and involves an balancy move from the flaring crack onto the face.Difficult to protect and not recommended.


Protects with small cams and nuts. Bolted anchor.


Mike Hack  
I didn't enjoy this climb. The crack is flared and gear doesn't seem all that nice. I guess the crux came low, but there were all these buckets just right . . . should I feel guilty for using them? Short climb . . . how did it get two stars in Randy's guide? Mar 1, 2005
Ryan Avery  
I can't figure out this one either. It was ok, but it crack is flared and I wouldn't lead it. I TR'ed it after leading Little Rock Candy Crack just to the right. Easier than it looks, but wouldn't gear up all that good. I would recommend a TR up if you are in the area. Mar 9, 2005
I disagree. this crack eats small pro.very fun climb. Apr 25, 2005
Brandt Allen
Joshua Tree, Cal
Brandt Allen   Joshua Tree, Cal
A great climb requiring somewhat technical tips jamming and thoughtful gear placements. May 6, 2005
Adam Stackhouse    
As someone who seconded this route, I can't testify for the mental security that the pro may or may not have provided but I do remember it came out ok, and my leader didn't whine about it. As for the climb itself, its an ok crack if one is kickin around in the area. Feb 21, 2006
Santa Barbara, CA
EricT   Santa Barbara, CA
Agreed, it protects well with small gear. It's a cute little route. Dec 11, 2006
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Fun route, unfortunate is so short. Eats up pro and positive the whole way. Nice Feb 23, 2007
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
Fun climb! Painful toe jams but nice mental workout through the crux and great jugs reward thereafter. Apr 30, 2007
JoshuaTreeRunner David
Los Angeles
JoshuaTreeRunner David   Los Angeles
Good pro. Short. Jun 5, 2009
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
Readily protectable. Fun and interesting crux sequence, without stemming left to M&M's Peanut. Mar 19, 2013
Tommy G.
Killeen, Texas
Tommy G.   Killeen, Texas
I've climbed this using only the crack and also by stemming over to M & Ms Peanut. I thought the stemming was a bit easier, but made it more interesting and memorable. Oct 28, 2013

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