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Routes in Rat Rock
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Arraignment, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bad Lizards T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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False Rat Ledge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Graduate and Don't Look Back T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jarheads and City Slickers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Mirage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rat Ledge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Richard Jensen and Mark Smith, April 1982 |
| Page Views: | 954 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Approach this route by walking along the top of the dam and then scrambling over boulders to reach a rocky spot just right of Mirage (5.10b) and below the start of False Rat Ledge (5.8). The route parallels that of False Rat Ledge and is easily identified by it's start in an obvious dark-stained flake system.
Climb the flake (pro to 2") and then wander upward on somewhat vague friction past four bolts, cutting right after the last bolt to finish with the last moves of False Rat Ledge. Gear to 3.5" for the anchor in a crack about 20' back from the edge, which can make it difficult to hear your partner if you don't extend yourself out to the edge. Descend to the climber's left down slabs and blocks.
Although the climb feels a tad contrived at times it does provide some enjoyable friction moves in a nice setting, high above the water and thronging tourists. One star out of five.
Climb the flake (pro to 2") and then wander upward on somewhat vague friction past four bolts, cutting right after the last bolt to finish with the last moves of False Rat Ledge. Gear to 3.5" for the anchor in a crack about 20' back from the edge, which can make it difficult to hear your partner if you don't extend yourself out to the edge. Descend to the climber's left down slabs and blocks.
Although the climb feels a tad contrived at times it does provide some enjoyable friction moves in a nice setting, high above the water and thronging tourists. One star out of five.
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