Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Richard Jensen and Mark Smith, April 1982
Page Views: 450 total · 2/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: NEW RESTRICTIONS Details

Description

Approach this route by walking along the top of the dam and then scrambling over boulders to reach a rocky spot just right of Mirage (5.10b) and below the start of False Rat Ledge (5.8). The route parallels that of False Rat Ledge and is easily identified by it's start in an obvious dark-stained flake system.

Climb the flake (pro to 2") and then wander upward on somewhat vague friction past four bolts, cutting right after the last bolt to finish with the last moves of False Rat Ledge. Gear to 3.5" for the anchor in a crack about 20' back from the edge, which can make it difficult to hear your partner if you don't extend yourself out to the edge. Descend to the climber's left down slabs and blocks.

Although the climb feels a tad contrived at times it does provide some enjoyable friction moves in a nice setting, high above the water and thronging tourists. One star out of five.

Protection

4 bolts (3/8"), pro to 3.5"

Photos

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