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Routes in Echo Cove - South Face

Allergy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ass of Dog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Atari T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Axe of Dog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bacon Flake T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bonzo Dog Band T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
C.S. Special T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chips Ahoy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
F.U.N. TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fear of Dogs T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fear of God T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flake and Bake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gordon-Bartlett T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Horny Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
J.B.'s Variation TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Life and Limb T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Out on a Limb T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pocket Veto T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Poodle Skirt T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Possessed by Elvis T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
R.M.L. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Riddler, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sabretooth T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sicker than Jezouin T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sitting Here in Limbo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Statute of Limbitations TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
TM's Terror T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Dan Ahlborn, Dave Evans, Randy Vogel, Kevin Powell & Tim Powell, November 1976
Page Views: 1,459 total, 9/month
Shared By: vincent L. on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Two routes right of the popular Bonzo Dog Band, this route climbs a nice lieback to a short tenuous face move to an easy crack to the top. The route takes solid trad gear, the crux is well protected, and there are rap rings at the finish. What else could you ask for? Parking for the route is maybe 18 feet away. 2 stars out of 5.

Protection

pro to 3 inches

Photos

This climb is really fun. Kind of a one move wonder in between the two diagonal sections. Nov 19, 2013
Good story Dave! Apr 23, 2009
Pretty sure this is the climb - been about ten years now. My partner Bob and I had had a great day climbing in Echo Cove. Thought I would jump on this at the end of day as it was about 15 feet from the car bumper. I was just breaking into leading 5.10s, and this looked not too bad - good gear, short crux. Just as I was racking up, a big truck/van pulls up and out jumps Jim Bridwell!!! After reading about his exploits in countless magazines and books, I'm pretty inspired!! Anyway, Jim and his friends head off to climb something nearby, so off I start. Pretty soon I get to just below the crux, and plug in Bob's brand new red#1 camalot. Bomber placement. I stood there contemplating the crux, thinking that it looked pretty hard and greasy for 5.10a. Typical J Tree smears and belief that you won't peel. I move past the #1, and almost through the crux when I realize that this isn't going to work. Bob's #1 camalot takes a fall...and another....and another...and another. Bob's getting a little concerned about his new gear, and I'm getting frustrated. Finally, one last try, and I make it to the easy crack above, and let out a shout of triumph. I'm all smiles as I sail up the easy crack above and setup the belay. As I'm bringing Bob up, Jim Bridwell walks by - looks up at me, gives me a big grin and thumbs up, and says something to the effect of "way to stick with it". I feel like the hand of god has just reached down and touched me!!! I'm on cloud nine! When Bob gets to the belay I can't control my excitement "Dude, did you hear that!! Jim Bridwell just told me good job!!!". Bob looks over at Jim and says "That old geezer? What's he ever done?" Apr 23, 2009
Thanks Chris, I had a feeling you'd know. I'll have to go back and take a better look. 5.11c is really hard by the way! LOL Feb 22, 2006
C Miller   CA  
The straight up route you describe, past the 2 bolts and horizontals, is called Fear of God (5.11c). The 3 bolt arete right of that is called Fear of Dogs (5.11a); both routes end at a shared 2 bolt anchor found on the ledge above.

Axe of Dog finishes slightly to the left in a left-slanting crack shared by Ass of Dog. The bolted routes were done after the 1992 Vogel guide came out, but they are in the 2002 edition of Central JT (Bartlett). Feb 22, 2006
I just TRIED climbing this last week and think that something is wrong with the rating and description of this route. I agree it starts with a nice layback to a very tough crux at the end (I took a 20'er to a cam I had at the lip. Then the description says it's easy crack to the top??? By the guidebook photo it seems that you should climb straight up to the anchors and that passes 2 horizontal cracks and 2 bolts. The climbing is desparate and well above the 10a level. Does anyone have insight to what happened to me?? Feb 22, 2006