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Routes in North Horror Rock - South & East Faces

Glumpies T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Grape Nuts, Why Not? T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Grit Roof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
House Of The Homeless S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lay Back and Enjoy It (aka A Dog In The Ass) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ungawaa S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Brian Fellhoelter & John Duster, November 1993, Bolts added: Steven Powers et al, 2002
Page Views: 1,302 total · 8/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This climb is essentially a direct start to the route House Of The Homeless that joins that route at it's second bolt.

Start down and right from House Of The Homeless and lieback the edge of a wide crack to reach a high first bolt which protects more liebacking along the edge of the narrowing crack (crux) to reach a second bolt. Higher, join House Of The Homeless for it's near-vertical crux and shared anchors with that route.

Originally lead without the lower two bolts and later climbed with the added bolts thinking it was a first ascent. The climbing is fun, even if a little a little contrived, but overall a good addition to the area for the sport climbing crowd. One star out of five.

Protection

4 bolts, bolted anchor/rap (all 3/8")

Photos

Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.9
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.9
Well, can't say I care for the choice of route names, but the moves are balancy and fun. When asked I just claim I was on House of the Homeless (classier moniker). This route used to feature a drilled angle, for the 1st clip, but that has been replaced with a more reassuring bolt. The bottom is entertaining, but the ballgame is at the top. Easy to TR from chains, if you're not up to the lead. Dec 13, 2010