PRINT: Rock Climb Frontier Justice, Joshua Tree National Park

Frontier Justice

5.11c, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 3.6 from 7 votes
FA: Geoff Archer and Alan Bartlett, October 1990
California > Joshua Tree NP > Indian Cove > Rattlesnake Canyon > Lower Dodge City

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.

The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

A hand crack start leads up to an imposing roof (5.10+) which goes at a far easier grade than appearances suggest. Once established over the lip the climbing is off-vertical, thin face with difficult smearing. The crux will be found around the vicinity of the fifth bolt with easier moves leading to the top and a bolted anchor/rap.

This spectacular route is well worth the rugged thirty minute approach. Almost a sport climb, except for the crack start, but the rest of the route is protected like one. Four stars out of five for enjoyable positioning and the high-quality moves.

This photogenic route was featured on the front and back cover of Alan Bartlett's "Rock Climbs of Indian Cove" guidebook (1st edition).

Location

Located on a northerly-facing block that faces towards the left side of the Corral Wall, this climb is shady most of the day. If approaching from the vicinity of the Corral Wall it helps to stay high and to the right in the boulders on the approach.

Protection

7 bolts, 2.5" piece, bolted anchor/rap (all bolts 3/8")

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ben May
San Diego, CA

Best route name ever. May 21, 2018

Tradiban
951-527-7959

Fun over the roof and easier than it looks, show stopper slab move up high though. Bolts are in good shape but anchor is some aging slings, ok for now. Mar 28, 2021