Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Geoff Archer and Alan Bartlett, October 1990
Page Views: 1,316 total · 8/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A hand crack start leads up to an imposing roof (5.10+) which goes at a far easier grade than appearances suggest. Once established over the lip the climbing is off-vertical, thin face with difficult smearing. The crux will be found around the vicinity of the fifth bolt with easier moves leading to the top and a bolted anchor/rap.

This spectacular route is well worth the rugged thirty minute approach. Almost a sport climb, except for the crack start, but the rest of the route is protected like one. Four stars out of five for enjoyable positioning and the high-quality moves.

  • This photogenic route was featured on the front and back cover of Alan Bartlett's "Rock Climbs of Indian Cove" guidebook (1st edition).

Location

Located on a northerly-facing block that faces towards the left side of the Corral Wall, this climb is shady most of the day. If approaching from the vicinity of the Corral Wall it helps to stay high and to the right in the boulders on the approach.

Protection

7 bolts, 2.5" piece, bolted anchor/rap (all bolts 3/8")

Photos

Ben May
San Diego, CA
Ben May   San Diego, CA
Best route name ever. May 21, 2018