PRINT: Rock Climb The Accidental Purist, Joshua Tree National Park

The Accidental Purist

5.10a, Trad, 30 ft (9 m),

Avg: 1 from 2 votes
FA: Rex Pieper & Keath Nupuf, October 1994
California > Joshua Tree NP > Central Joshua… > Sheep Pass Area > Planet X Area > Love Nest Area > Thin Vice Area

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Stem off a rock to start and climb positive but grainy edges to reach a high first bolt. Small but good edges with decent feet are climbed past the first bolt (crux) to a second bolt where larger, more incut holds lead to the top. Bolted anchor/rap on top.

The quality moves, sheltered location with no wind and the fact that this is a summit with no easy way to the top make up for the shortness of the climb. One star out of five.

Location

Approach as for the Love Nest block, but instead of turning off for those routes continue east on a good trail that leads to the Planet X area.

Once even with the eastern edge of the rubble pile that the Love Nest is a part of, make a left (heading north) and look for a large round boulder about midway along the east side. A short scramble through brush and a small cave will access this west-facing route.

Protection

2 bolts, bolted anchor/rap (all 3/8")

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Rex Pieper

This route was intended to be a warmup for the other routes in the area.

Approach it from the east, skirting the south edge of the boulder around to the westside, going clockwise. You don't need to do any caving! Oct 5, 2006