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Routes in Rat Rock

Arraignment, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bad Lizards T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
False Rat Ledge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Graduate and Don't Look Back T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jarheads and City Slickers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Mirage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rat Ledge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Dave Haber & Joe Dietrick 1987
Page Views: 576 total, 3/month
Shared By: Bo Johnston on Nov 25, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

If you like attention from tourist, this climb puts you in the spotlight being just across the Barker Dam from the popular nature trail. No particular move on this route might be remembered, however, the position by the water and the length and moderate difficulty of it all makes it a must do. The second half of the route could be considered difficult to protect for some so this may not be appropriate for the fledgling trad leader.

Protection

A light standard J-Tree rack will be enough. 1"-3" for the first half and smaller cams for the upper. I recall there being a bolt at the end where the crack peters out before the summit slab. Two bolt anchor at the top and walk off.

Photos

Bo Johnston  
 
I guess we still agree that it is 5.8? It seemed like it to me. I'd be interested now to go and check out the real Rat Ledge if I can find it. Feb 13, 2005
C Miller
CA
  5.8
C Miller   CA  
  5.8
Thanks Randy...case closed! Feb 11, 2005
Randy  
The route shown in the 1992 guide as Rat Ledge is in fact NOT Rat Ledge, but rather a route called False Rat Ledge (5.8) established by Dave Haber & Joe Dietrick in 1987. Feb 11, 2005
C Miller
CA
  5.8
C Miller   CA  
  5.8
Rat Ledge is incorrectly depicted as the left-facing corner just right of The Arraignment (5.10a), a decent but somewhat contrived bolted slab that starts in a flake, which means you climbed another route.

The real Rat Ledge starts on the west side of the dam, has a jog (crux) about mid-height and is a continuous crack the entire way.

The description you give of the crack petering out fits with what's shown in Randy's guide, but doesn't fit with the real route. The fact the route was aided first and later freed is something else to consider. Certainly an obvious feature but not Rat Ledge...Rat Crack maybe? Feb 11, 2005
Bo Johnston  
 
The picture I have on P.277 of the Vogel guide seems to have the correct line for the route... Feb 11, 2005
C Miller
CA
  5.8
C Miller   CA  
  5.8
A decent route that gets lots of sun and very little traffic. There were no problems protecting this climb if I recall, and as such would recommend it to all. One star out of five.

The line shown in the Vogel guide is incorrect, as the climb is actually much further left and starts on the other side of the dam (see the Bartlett guide). That said, the obvious question is - what's the climb shown in Randy's book? Feb 11, 2005