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Betty Jo Yablonksi

5.10a V0 R, Boulder, 25 ft (8 m),  Avg: 3.6 from 73 votes
FA: John Yablonski
California > Joshua Tree NP > Joshua Tree Bou… > Hidden Valley A… > Real Hidden Val… > Real Hidden Val… > Entrance Boulde… > Betty Jo Rock
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

One of 10 or so classic high balls in the Park, as well as one of the easiest, this is the first climbable feature you'll see on your left as you enter the real Hidden valley corridor. Refrain from setting a TR and just go for it as the crux is encountered midway while leaving the top is a feeling to be savored and not feared.

Don't expect to send in a quiet setting as foot traffic is heavy here. That's ok though, more people to hoot as you top out!

Location

On a small, east-facing wall 75' west of and facing the Entrance Boulder, and right off the trail leading into Real Hidden Valley.

Protection

A pad (more is nicer)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

betty jo yablonski
[Hide Photo] betty jo yablonski
Approaching the crux of Betty Jo Yablonksi
[Hide Photo] Approaching the crux of Betty Jo Yablonksi
Dreams can come true; enjoying a moment on the onsight. The next few feet proved a bit tricky and committing, and probably the most dangerous section of the problem.
[Hide Photo] Dreams can come true; enjoying a moment on the onsight. The next few feet proved a bit tricky and committing, and probably the most dangerous section of the problem.
Close to the top on this classic highball
[Hide Photo] Close to the top on this classic highball
"Betty Joe Yablonski".  It's Betty Joe in the  Bouldering guide book, but Randy spells it right.<br>
Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] "Betty Joe Yablonski". It's Betty Joe in the Bouldering guide book, but Randy spells it right. Photo by Blitzo.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

David Evans
5.10a
[Hide Comment] Some of us might prefer to treat this thing as a route. Leading it with pro would prevent the dreaded grounfall potential as it is OTD. Just because John soloed it on the FA.....after all he soloed Leave It To Beav as well!!! Feb 11, 2005
Russ Walling
Flaky Foont, WI. Redacted…
 
[Hide Comment] Here is some vintage (early 80's) footage of Yabo doing the Betty Jo:

fishproducts.com/movies/yab… (QuickTime 7 required) Oct 24, 2007
[Hide Comment] VERY Cool Russ.... Oct 24, 2007
[Hide Comment] Another video youtube.com/watch?v=rZr489b… of someone climbing BJY (cool music too) Nov 12, 2007
Ashley Swenson
Pasadena, CA
[Hide Comment] you can dyno from the starting hold up to the first overhanging ledge Feb 14, 2021
Zach Brannan
Grandview Heights, OH
[Hide Comment] Have to agree with Ziggy here. found the bottom to be straightforward but took a fall off of the very top of this boulder. Broke a vertebrae. take the height seriously and double up on pads. Jun 8, 2021
Alan Zhan
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] The crux is likely going to depend on how good you are at crack climbing vs how you are at overhangs. Jun 8, 2021
Adam Stackable
Tulsa, OK
  5.10a V0 R
[Hide Comment] Maybe the best thing I've been lucky to climb! So good. The crux is definitely down low in terms of difficulty. But the upper technical and reachy 5.6 lieback is the mental crux, and the mother of all jugs awaits you. The scrunched mantle onto the big jug a bit tricky too. You can call it a boulder problem but once you stand under it and look up you realize it's more like a solo. Oct 30, 2021
Adam Stackable
Tulsa, OK
  5.10a V0 R