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Routes in Upper Freeway Wall

Anacram T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cakewalk T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Freeway T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Junkyard God T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Meaner than a Junkyard Dog T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
MetroLink TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nobody Walks in LA T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sig Alert (aka Cast Up a Highway) T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Talking Fish, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Totally Nuts T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Tom Beck, 9/88
Page Views: 725 total, 5/month
Shared By: Randy on Feb 5, 2005
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This fine route is located near the far right end of the Upper Freeway Wall, and begins about 10 feet right of Cake Walk. Though not given many stars in the past (and thus mostly overlooked), it is definitely worthy of attention (maybe 3 of 5 stars). As good as Anacram and of similar difficulty.

From the get-go, interesting face climbing next to seam (5.10c) is protected by 3 bolts and 1 fixed pin (a 1.5" cam provides additional/optional pro). Past here, easy climbing up a left slanting crack leads to a bulge. Here the crack changes direction again (leaning a bit right). The transition above the bulge involves a few difficult moves (5.10c). Easier climbing up the flared crack; save a couple 1.5 to 2.5 inch cams to provide possible protection. A fairly long enjoyable pitch.

Downclimb the east face (behind the top of Cake Walk) then head down a rocky gully until you can traverse around the south side of the formation and back to the base.

Protection

To several smaller cams with a few up to 2.5 inches; 3 bolts, 1 fixed pin.

Photos

Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10c R
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10c R
Seemed risky this one, but pulled right through the crux, top finishing crack was pretty intense for some reason. Dec 25, 2009
Erik
5.10d
Erik  
5.10d
Although this route is not much harder than Anacram, the spicy climbing is low on the route. Getting to first bolt is not as easy as it looks and first 20 feet have some crimps that will be removed with more traffic. I always thought it 3 out of 5 stars. Feb 8, 2005
Murf
 
Murf  
 
Not bad, perhaps 2 of 5. Rock quality is not 100%. My somewhat dim recollection is that its perhaps a bit spicy and that I was very happy to have a purple TCU. Should definately be added to anyones Freeway wall rotation ( as well as Quantum Leap ). Feb 7, 2005