Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Tom Beck, 9/88
Page Views: 805 total · 5/month
Shared By: Randy on Feb 5, 2005
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

This fine route is located near the far right end of the Upper Freeway Wall, and begins about 10 feet right of Cake Walk. Though not given many stars in the past (and thus mostly overlooked), it is definitely worthy of attention (maybe 3 of 5 stars). As good as Anacram and of similar difficulty.

From the get-go, interesting face climbing next to seam (5.10c) is protected by 3 bolts and 1 fixed pin (a 1.5" cam provides additional/optional pro). Past here, easy climbing up a left slanting crack leads to a bulge. Here the crack changes direction again (leaning a bit right). The transition above the bulge involves a few difficult moves (5.10c). Easier climbing up the flared crack; save a couple 1.5 to 2.5 inch cams to provide possible protection. A fairly long enjoyable pitch.

Downclimb the east face (behind the top of Cake Walk) then head down a rocky gully until you can traverse around the south side of the formation and back to the base.

Protection

To several smaller cams with a few up to 2.5 inches; 3 bolts, 1 fixed pin.

Photos

Murf
 
Murf  
 
Not bad, perhaps 2 of 5. Rock quality is not 100%. My somewhat dim recollection is that its perhaps a bit spicy and that I was very happy to have a purple TCU. Should definately be added to anyones Freeway wall rotation ( as well as Quantum Leap ). Feb 7, 2005
Erik
5.10d
Erik  
5.10d
Although this route is not much harder than Anacram, the spicy climbing is low on the route. Getting to first bolt is not as easy as it looks and first 20 feet have some crimps that will be removed with more traffic. I always thought it 3 out of 5 stars. Feb 8, 2005
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10c R
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10c R
Seemed risky this one, but pulled right through the crux, top finishing crack was pretty intense for some reason. Dec 25, 2009
Yannick Gingras
On the road, mostly Southwest
  5.10d PG13
Yannick Gingras   On the road, mostly Southwest
  5.10d PG13
There are some good move on this climb, but the pro is sparse. Without offset cams, this route is definitely R-rated. A double set of offset cams would not be a bad idea – offset nuts won't be very useful. Nov 29, 2018
Matt Hagny
  5.10c/d PG13
Matt Hagny  
  5.10c/d PG13
The upper part is a bit runout even with the use of a finger-size offset cam (nothing else is available for 15' above or below this, and it's a bit insecure climbing on rounded features). Any gear ripping here might bring you to an abrupt encounter with the slab below.

The cruxes here seem a bit harder than Anacram.

Fun climbing, but won't be volunteering to lead this again in the near future! Too intense. Nov 29, 2018