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Routes in Surprise Rock

Awe-rete, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Called on Account of Grain TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dirty Surprise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eye of Horus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flittering Fingers TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Grainy Day, Dream Away TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Trembling Toes S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Herb Laeger, December 1977
Page Views: 563 total, 4/month
Shared By: Randy on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route heads up the obvious long crack system on the right side of Surprise Rock. Don't let the name disuade you from climbing this route. Other than a few loose flakes at the bottom, the route is quite clean and long.

A few hard moves near the bottom lead to fairly straightforward climbing in the middle of the pitch. However, near the top, where the crack disappears, the climbing is both well protected and challenging.

Protection

Good variety from 0.25 to 2.5 inches. Two bolt anchor. Rap off from Trembling Toes anchor to the left.
Eric T.
St. Augustine, Florida
  5.9+
Eric T.   St. Augustine, Florida
  5.9+
Decent climb. The top is definitely the crux on thin gear. Feb 10, 2015
ssp
ssp  
We did this one back in the late 80s and again in the early 90s.A fine secluded long route with a nice hike to get to it thru the Wonderland.
Just brush away any loose grit and move on up. Although I recall no grainyness back then. Be sure to try and find the ancient red pictograph handprint on a huge boulder on the way in. If ya do let me know. BTW this is not a hoax, the handprint is the real deal. Nov 30, 2011
Murf
  5.9+
Murf  
  5.9+
The grain at the bottom leaves something to be desired, but it improves with height. I thought the exit moves were cranking a bit for 5.9, but I'll blame it on uncomfortable shoes. Feb 7, 2005
C Miller
CA
  5.9
C Miller   CA  
  5.9
This is a really enjoyable climb with good rock, bomber gear and varied moves in a pleasant location. The crux comes at the end where face moves off your gear reach the belay ledge. Memorable enough to warrant three stars out of five. Feb 7, 2005