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> Surprise Rock
Dirty Surprise
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.2 from 17
votes
Routes in Surprise Rock
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Awe-rete, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Called on Account of Grain TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dirty Surprise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Eye of Horus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flittering Fingers TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Grainy Day, Dream Away TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Trembling Toes S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 34.04177, -116.14396 |
| FA: | Herb Laeger, December 1977 |
| Page Views: | 1,441 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Randy on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route heads up the obvious long crack system on the right side of Surprise Rock. Don't let the name disuade you from climbing this route. Other than a few loose flakes at the bottom, the route is quite clean and long.
A few hard moves near the bottom lead to fairly straightforward climbing in the middle of the pitch. However, near the top, where the crack disappears, the climbing is both well protected and challenging.
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