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Routes in Surprise Rock

Awe-rete, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Called on Account of Grain TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dirty Surprise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eye of Horus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flittering Fingers TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Grainy Day, Dream Away TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Trembling Toes S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Richard Jensen & Mark Smith, April 1982
Page Views: 730 total · 4/month
Shared By: Bo Johnston on Feb 5, 2005
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

The is a great route to climb while passing by on the Wonderland trail. For a bolted line at this grade and height, it can't easily be beat by J-Tree standards. The bolts have all been replaced (except for the first) recently to 3/8" and are spaced well. The rock is a bit loose due to lack of traffic so tred carefully. Be careful: on the last quarter of the climb, the route moves to the left... start this process early and avoid (what I did) climbing up a wonderful flake that turns evil at the end where it's thin and loose making it hard to move back to the left to clip. You'll find the crux to be the final 3 bolts. Enjoy!

Protection [Suggest Change]

9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap at the top. A 60 meter rope (or longer) is nice for the rappel.

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C Miller
CA
  5.9
C Miller   CA  
  5.9
Well-protected and enjoyable climbing with very little to no traffic makes this a nice quick hit when heading in or out of the Wonderland. Easily rapped with a 60 meter rope as the initial apron is very low-angled and easy. Two stars out of five. Feb 6, 2005
Randy
  5.9
Randy  
  5.9
The crux section near the top is contrived as the natural line would have been to either head straight up or traverse left and up arete. Last 2 bolts are placed between these two options, forcing one onto harder ground. A fairly long and worthwhile route. Particularly when combined with Dirty Surprise, which is also quite good. Feb 7, 2005
C Miller
CA
  5.9
C Miller   CA  
  5.9
When replacing the bolts on this route I contemplated moving some of the bolts to better locations but ultimately decided to leave them where they were. Contrived yes, but not too unpleasant. Feb 7, 2005
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.9
One of the routes i climbed early on, cuz it was "overbolted." Crumbly rock at that time ('90). Feb 8, 2005
Drederek
  5.8
Drederek  
  5.8
plugged in a small cam and finished straight up instead of heading out to the last two bolts. A nice 5.8 if you skip the difficulties out that way. Apr 9, 2009
Did this today with my kids. It's worth doing once (barely). Some really junky rock here. At least it's well-protected. If you've got a helmet, give it to your belayer. My kids, at least, liked it. Jan 28, 2013
10a in Vogel Classic. In the purple guide 5.9 and noted as being over bolted and aid was probably used, funny. Wings of Steel. Feb 10, 2015
mhagny Hagny
  5.9
mhagny Hagny  
  5.9
A little over halfway up, stay off the detached flake to the R of the bolt line. My partner made the mistake of standing on top of it, and said it did a major wobble and he thought the whole thing was coming down. Apr 23, 2018

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