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Early Access
Routes in Lower Dodge City
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Frontier Justice T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hangman Jury S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 34.0807, -116.14167 |
| FA: | Geoff Archer, Dave Stoner and Louie Anderson, February 1990 |
| Page Views: | 1,237 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
The crux comes early on and involves pulling a hard move on crisp, thin edges. Once past the horizontal crack the angle relents, the holds become huge and the bolts become more spaced until the anchor is reached. An excellent route with fun movement and good rock that affords great vistas down into Dodge City Canyon and the surrounding area. Plan on a thiry or so minute approach, which although reasonable seems to be a factor in keeping the crowds down. Three stars out of five.
Location
Around and left from Frontier Justice and facing towards the Ponderosa Wall is this northeast-facing route which ascends a triangular block split by a horizontal crack at mid-height.
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