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> Joshua Tree NP
> Central Joshua…
> Sheep Pass Area
> Saddle Rocks Area
> Cowboy Crags
Cling Peaches
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British R
Avg: 1.3 from 4
votes
Routes in Cowboy Crags
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Cling Peaches T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Dirty Minds S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unbearable Lightness of Being, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Wisest Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 33.9917, -116.1388 |
| FA: | Randy Vogel, Matt Cox, Steve Van Meter, 1976 |
| Page Views: | 1,163 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Randy on Dec 21, 2002 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route is located on a large slabby-looking section of rock, near the left-hand part of this cliff band. In the photo, it is the right-hand (and cleaner looking) of the two large slabby outcrops, up and right of Saddle Rocks.
Begin near the right side of the slab, near a large pine tree. Up a flake to a bolt; then head left and up on face to a 2nd bolt (5.9). More face climbing up and left leads to a left-slanting thin crack which is followed until you can climb straight up to the top.
The last section of the route is joined by The Unbearable Lightness Of Being (5.9) which comes up a thin crack from the left side of the face.
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