Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Randy Vogel, Matt Cox, Steve Van Meter, 1976
Page Views: 418 total · 2/month
Shared By: Randy on Dec 21, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route is located on a large slabby-looking section of rock, near the left-hand part of this cliff band. In the photo, it is the right-hand (and cleaner looking) of the two large slabby outcrops, up and right of Saddle Rocks.

Begin near the right side of the slab, near a large pine tree. Up a flake to a bolt; then head left and up on face to a 2nd bolt (5.9). More face climbing up and left leads to a left-slanting thin crack which is followed until you can climb straight up to the top.

The last section of the route is joined by The Unbearable Lightness Of Being (5.9) which comes up a thin crack from the left side of the face.

Protection

Thin to 2 inches, 2 bolts.

Photos

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Randy
  5.9
Randy  
  5.9
As reported by Locker, the bolts on this route (as of 1/2005) are the original 1/4 jobs and apparently less than inspiring. Someone should definitely replace these with new 3/8" bolts/hangers.

As far as the descent, you can walk off to the left. I doubt the lack of a convenience anchor on this route has kept anyone away.

The route is a bit spicey (perhaps an R rating is deserved). Haven't done it in years, so I guess I will have to repeat it to check it out. Jan 28, 2005
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.9
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.9
The first bolt above a large flake is one hell of an old rusted quarter incher. Then the route traverses left to a second beauty of a bolt. To fall inbetween these two wonders is to deck for sure and one that would be extremely ugly considering the ground below. The entire route is terribly grainy and should be rated s/vs in my opinion. It then switches to a crack that is protectable but not the best rock in the world. No anchors up top so don't run out of gear. I left a #12 nut and over the shoulder sling to rap off of. I gave the lead a try but backed off due to the run out and grainyness of the rock. Woody either stupidly or bravely or both took over and had a time of it stating that he will not lead that one again. EVER! An additional bolt between those rusty ones would make it much safer (But we've done it so it makes no difference to us any longer) for future climbers and replacing the old ones would be super. Randy? It's yours if I am again not mistaken. What do you think? Overall the route has some real cool moves and is pretty cool. Also rap anchors would be a plus. Two ropes to get back down. Whatever............. Jan 28, 2005
Woody Stark
  5.10a
Woody Stark  
  5.10a
I led this route last weekend. I rate it 10a, and that's a reduction from what others that day would have rated it. Giving it an R is not adequate; it's X. If you don't quite get to the second bolt, you ground. We even back belayed all who followed. It's a great route; however, the bolts need to be replaced and at least one added. Jan 28, 2005
Randy
  5.9
Randy  
  5.9
Al Bartlett gives this route a PG/R rating. In the 1992 guide I gave it an R. It is most certainly not an X. X means that there is no pro at the crux sections. The hard parts of this route have adequate bolt protection (though the bolts could stand to be replaced). Jan 29, 2005
Woody Stark
  5.10a
Woody Stark  
  5.10a
Okay, let me put it this way: there is a point between the two bolts on the traverse where the belayer might as well put the rope down and take a nap because his attention is no longer an issue. Jan 29, 2005
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.9
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.9
well the crux is between the first and second bolt where it is quite runnout and there is no pro.........X kind of fits in my opinion. The whole traverse that is runnout is the crux and you will flat out deck for sure should you be unfortunate enough to get spit. I really thing there should be another bolt on that baby. But there isn't so so be it. But it would get climbed and cleaned (It is super grainy. Like climbing with little marbles under your rubber) if there were a bolt between the "Deck-o-rama" section............but as I said before............we've done it.............so what the hell.... leave it alone and let future freaks have at it. Hope no one flys west for the winter..........the plane just lost both wings.......... Jan 29, 2005
Randy
  5.9
Randy  
  5.9
Locker posted to another subject (Trad Guide) suggesting it would be a good idea for me to go up and replace the 1/4 inch bolts of this route. I might do this when I revisit the area this year (for Vol. 2 Joshua Tree East). But, I doubt I will be adding a bolt; but, maybe when I turn 80 and need someone to pre-chew my food for me I will think about it. Feb 7, 2005
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.9
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.9
Randy responded to my post........"but, maybe when I turn 80 and need someone to pre-chew my food for me I will think about it." .............well don't fall between the first and second bolt or you may end up resembling chewed food for a roaming coyote.........also, Neither Woody nor myself fell anywhere on the route and it is of course doable for many.....so like I said......add a bolt/replace the old ones? Makes no difference to me........it's a cool route, neat moves, I've ticked it off already.........whatever..........I have a couple of scrapers rusting in the shed........... Feb 7, 2005
Randy
  5.9
Randy  
  5.9
BTW: I forgot to mention that Cowboy Crags lies in Federal Designated Wilderness and while you can replace bolts on a one for one basis, it is illegal to add bolts without a permit (which they are not giving out yet).

Feb 10, 2005
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.9
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.9
Randy...........that last post of yours is the number one big time reason then to leave it as is other than replacing the old bolts..........it is a really cool route regardless of the runnout........a "Jtree Special" ...... Feb 11, 2005
Rex Pieper  
 
I led this in 1995. The bolts weren't any too inspiring then! Are they even 1/4"? They appeared like 3/16" to me. Definitely a spicy "old school Josh" route. I enjoyed it. My partner thought I was insane leading it though. Haha.

New bolts would be nice. Oct 5, 2006