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Routes in Jimmy Cliff - East Face

Bronto's or Us, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cliff Hanger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Dick Van Dyke TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dike, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Fiendish Fists T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Friendly Hands T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Harder They Fall, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Penalty Runout T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Third World T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Kevin Powell & Alan Roberts 1981
Page Views: 1,594 total · 10/month
Shared By: Graham Roff on Jan 14, 2005
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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36 Opinions

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Description

A fun, if short, route up the east face of Jimmy Cliff. An awkward start onto a ramp leads quickly to the crux moves pulling around into and up an off-fingers crack. Delicate liebacking with careful balance will see you through two or three tricky moves to easier terrain above. Protection is easy to place before starting the hard moves, but you may be above your gear before you can get another piece in.

Fun route, it would get another star if it were longer (and closer to the road).

There are few (if any) hand jams to be had.

Protection

Protects well with small to medium cams. Bolted anchor with somewhat sketchy slings.

Photos

Murf
  5.10b
Murf  
  5.10b
Good thin hands through the crux. While I've always wondered whose perfect hands the route name references, it ain't a lieback. For those who think this route is far from the road, I got good news and bad news. The good news is you've got more great routes than you ever thought possible yet to do. The bad news is Jimmy Cliff isn't far from the road. Jan 28, 2005
C Miller
CA
  5.10b
C Miller   CA  
  5.10b
An area favorite with good rock, good gear and some nice jamming up an obvious feature. The transition moves from the ramp into the crack proper are exposed and way cool. This route is perfect hands for those with smaller hands. Three stars out of five, but only because it's not longer and more sustained. Jan 28, 2005
I couldn't get my hands in the crux section either, had to layback, and then transition (like an easy Woman's Work) to get a good jam above. Must be "Friendly" in the sense there are so few jams to hurt your hands! Jan 28, 2005
Randy
  5.10b
Randy  
  5.10b
Perhaps this route is rife with "friendly hands" in the same way that Perfect Fingers is a "perfect finger crack."

Relatively short approach (flat and about 20 minutes). Jan 28, 2005
Crack Addict
San Diego, CA
 
Crack Addict   San Diego, CA
 
"Friendly Ring-Locks" is a more appropriate name for me and my digits. Loved the climb. May 8, 2005
Will S
Joshua Tree
  5.10b
Will S   Joshua Tree
  5.10b
Thin hands in the business section, it struck me as an advanced version of Overseer. Somewhat awkward, but easy, getting onto the ramp, and awkward but not as easy getting off the ramp. Pretty high quality. Mar 16, 2007
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10b
As good as cracks get in JTree - except for the length. The business is green and purple camalot size... tight hands, big fingers for me. Apr 8, 2007
Kevin Powell, Frank Bentwood and I replaced the anchor bolts with 1/2 inch diameter stainless steel bolts with rings, December 2009. Dec 12, 2009
deceptive route name. Not a hand jam to be had on this thing, but it is good! More like unfriendly thin-hands Dec 6, 2010
Cat Cahoon
Seattle, WA
 
Cat Cahoon   Seattle, WA
 
sucks for you guys. I definitely jammed the whole way!!! thought the route was great, just short. Dec 7, 2012

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