[Hide Comment] This is a great route. Bring small to one inch cams and nuts. Mar 23, 2005

[Hide Comment] P1 up the ramp, straight up from the tree, traverse under the roof to the patina and up to a huge ledge.P2 head right up double cracks, across ledge to awesome layback dihedral then a few awkward moves to the top.easy walkoff left as you face the climb.An excellent start to the day. Apr 5, 2005

[Hide Comment] It's short enough that it can be done in one pitch, but rope drag would be significant Oct 4, 2005

[Hide Comment] Excellent route. It can easily be climbed in one pitch with a 60-meter rope and not too many placements (to avoid rope drag). May 11, 2006

[Hide Comment] Classic. A near perfect single pitch 5.6.

This overlooked and underrated route is likely the best 5.6 in the park: balancy face moves to start, an overhang with huge jugs, a nice bear hug/finger crack midway, and a solid layback to top it off.

Dr. Evil is right on: unless you're still gaining your lead head, do it in one pitch. Start at the top of the left leaning ramp, and conserve placements until you get to the overhang.

If you dont know how to reduce rope drag, this is a great route to learn!! There are so many places to set up a second belay, you have many "outs". Oct 26, 2006

[Hide Comment] This is a fun and excellent route. May give the beginning .6 leader some trouble. Feb 23, 2007

[Hide Comment] A "heady" 5.6 on pretty good rock. Typical J-Tree walk-off. Apr 2, 2007

[Hide Comment] My follower on this route is an experienced climber and he found the traverse to the bottom of the crux could be a bit eerie for the less experienced follower due to far apart pro from the beginning to the end of the traverse.

This route is in shade in the PM. Apr 9, 2007

[Hide Comment] The traverse looks kind of improbable from the ground. Probably better for an experienced 5.7 leader to lead. At the beginning of the climb where you follow a crack up (above a small tree) you can get a smaller nut (lower) and a TCU or Alien (around 3/4" size) a few feet higher. I only had a .75 camalot and couldnt get it in the narrow (height and width) crack so could only get 2 lobes in there and probably would have decked if falling form the traverse.

The traverse is all there for a taller person but can definitely make one nervous as a fall will cause injury probably. At the end of the 10'-15' traverse or so you can plug a good piece under the patina plates before going up over the patina plates. Once again height helps feel securer earlier on this part.

The rest of the climb is mostly walking up ledges with the exception of a finger lock move and a short lieback or hand jam section. Did it in one pitch (70 meter but 60 meter is fine). I didnt feel rope drag but didnt put much pro in. Apr 30, 2007

[Hide Comment] TCU's are a must for the opening section. Use lots of runners and a single 70m will get you to the top. Amazing exposure and wild moves for a 5.6! Jun 2, 2009

[Hide Comment] I found the traverse to be very difficult to protect convincingly and therefore rather scary. The moves are not difficult, but a fall could have serious consequences. Other than that I loved this climb, especially the huge juggy roof and the dihedral. May 3, 2010

[Hide Comment] Fun climb! Traverse was extremely easy but lacks any pro. The second pitch is like climbing several small boulder problems. The dihedral at the top was my favorite part. Oct 10, 2010

[Hide Comment] A really fun climb, where you will surely have a supportive audience on the weekends ;) I found this easier but more exposed than Mike's books, although both are excellent for bringing a beginner on their first multipitch.

Although improbably steep, the climb is so juggy that 5.6 is right on. Even though you could do this in 1 pitch, I don't know why you'd want to - the obvious belay ledge is excellent. I'd recommend building your anchor in the right crack (finger size nuts and cams) as the left one flexes slightly.

I'm inclined to disagree about the traverse being unprotectable, It seemed to me that strategic smaller cams sewed it up nicely. The walkoff is great, 2nd class and only takes 5-6 min. Mar 24, 2011

[Hide Comment] I guess you can say I'm still getting my lead head....and I'm short...so the traverse was rather *exciting* - It was supposed to be my Sunday warm-up and I ended up being more scared on Fote Hog than any other climb I had done that weekend. Still, though - fun and recommended ;) Apr 27, 2011

[Hide Comment] Superb route for the grade....... Oct 28, 2011

[Hide Comment] Loved the layback!!! The traverse definitely would be tricky if you were short. Dec 13, 2011

[Hide Comment] Question for those "salty" J-Tree climbers out there: What is the actual "route" for P1 of Fote Hog?

I see a lot of pictures and talk here about going over the roof bulge on the patina jugs . . . but I was under the impression that that is a different climb or different variation of the climb. The "Miramontes" guide shows Fote Hog going pretty much straight up from the tree on the low ledge and then entering the patina near the little bush, NOT going up under the roof. That guide lists the juggy roof as a 5.9 (I think) with a different name, though I can't remember it at the moment.

As far as sparse/tricky pro, I can concur. My buddy lead P1 and used a Grey Metolius TCU in the thin horizontal crack where you start to traverse. He thought it a good placement, but he went up about another 10 feet (near the bush) and I flicked the rope a little and the TCU popped right out. He was about 20 feet above his pro, then, and would have definitely hit the ledge with a fall. Thankfully, he was in a good position and there was easy pro behind a flake to his right.

When I followed, I inspected the horizontal and there is at least one great constriction that I think would take a bomber nut placement, especially a nut with a groove, like DMM offsets.

P1 (the way we did it, straight up from the tree) looks tough and improbable, but "it's all there" as they say. Great holds and edges once you're on it.
P2 Loved the dual crack bulge and amazing (too bad it's so low angle) corner crack of pitch two. Pretty easy ground, but REALLY fun. Jan 26, 2016

[Hide Comment] Okay, I saw on another site (Summitpost, maybe?) Bob Gaines mentioning that the lines/variations for "Fote Hog" are incorrect in the Miramontes book. Jan 29, 2016

[Hide Comment] Thanks guys! The line was incorrectly drawn in the 1st edition Miramontes routeguide. I revised it for the second edition based on Bob Gaines information. Feb 9, 2016

[Hide Comment] Great route! Lots of variety. I thought P1 protected okay with a small cam in the "inset triangle" above the tree and a very small purple TCU in the horizontal crack below the traverse. I would rate the overhanging crux move 5.7, even though the hand holds are huge -- and reaching those holds is definitely tougher if you're not about 5'9" or taller. Really an enjoyable climb! Mar 18, 2016

[Hide Comment] I definitely got off route on this one. I thought the crux was starting up the thin crack off the ramp. There is currently a fixed nut on the traverse in a horizontal crack. It appears I pulled over the roof further left than most climbers do. I went up right at the undercling with a good cam in the undercling. That caused me to miss the ledge out right and instead I belayed from a small cave (visible in several of the pics) with gear behind somewhat suspect flakes. From the cave we went a bit left and over another small roof on giant patina holds, then nearly straight up on easy slabby climbing to belay to the right of the large boulder/prow that is visible in some of the pics as well. I suspect I finished on Look Ma No Bolts (?). Bummed that I missed the "awesome layback dihedral". There are a set of double cracks right above the cave, which made me believe I was on route until I got higher up the second pitch. Apr 26, 2016

[Hide Comment] Route should be rated R. Bailed before doing the traverse. Beware this is pretty much a free solo until after the traverse. A fall would result in serious injury or death

There's a thin horizontal crack at your feet to place a small cam before traversing - but not one I would bet my life on. The cam is pressed against a thin lip that seemed too likely to break if my 200lbs body took a fall.

There is a small gap in the rock at eye level that would not take my BD C4 cam because it was a little too wide. Perhaps a different brand cam could fit. That would make it very protectable. May 10, 2017

[Hide Comment] Reading through these comments leaves me confused. Didn't encounter anything R rated or tricky to protect. I ran it out here and there, but only because the climbing was super mellow and a fall seemed impossible.

I followed the line shown in the newer Gaines guide (Best Climbs Joshua Tree Nat'l Park) and it went smooth and safe. The traverse felt like 5.4 across big footholds. Bring some long slings and do it in one pitch as others have recommended. The patina face and crack at the top are super fun. Oct 9, 2017

[Hide Comment] Got a nut stuck in the left of the double thin cracks above the P1 belay - may be there for awhile. If you get it, let me know. Or just keep it.

Really really fun route, underrated for sure. A ton a variety. Pretty heady for the grade though, and leaders should have a good head because the first pitch has plenty of decking potential. Jan 15, 2018

[Hide Comment] The climbing is quite good and varied for 5.6. There is certainly decking potential during the move up to and through the traverse as others have mentioned. If you are cool with that then go for it. If not the pro placements are not obvious but they are there. I read others mentioning TCU's. I had small x4's, c3's, a double set of BD stoppers, and offset stoppers. Found several placements during that tricky pro placement section. Once you get past the subjective head game crux, the actual physical crux can be easily protected with a blue 3inch C4 right before you pull the the roof. 2nd Pitch is pretty straight fwd, fun, but short. Apr 1, 2018

[Hide Comment] P1 is easy climbing with a great "roof" pull, but that traverse can get into your head. Bring small gear for the first pitch. Very small. I tried P1 first without enough small pieces and was basically free soloing (had I fallen, I would have decked without a doubt. This thought presented itself to me clearly on the aforementioned traverse). When you do cross the exposed traverse, be confident that a) the move is easy and b) the pro gets bomber on the far side. Some are saying to end P1 before the patina but that hardly seems fair for your first leader. Without the patina section, I'd say P1 is hardly worth doing. That part makes it worth it. That, and P2.

P2 is redemption for the route. You can belay from the ledge atop the patinas, and the leader can choose either the finger crack on the boulder to the right or a layback along that boulder's edge (this is assuming you are doing the 5.7 rightward section). I chose the finger crack, which was purely a stylistic decision, and loved it. once you are on top of that ledge there's a beautiful layback dihedral with amazing feet and clean holds. I jammed a 3 in there, but you really want a 2. The 3 was probably only about half way in. Not ideal, but you gotta work with what you got. Close it up with a nice scramble. I placed a hex because, fuck it.

Enjoy. This is a great beginner route with excellent mental challenges, and decently clean climbing. Easy walk off the back. Apr 2, 2018

[Hide Comment] Evening was coming to a close and we were looking for something fun and easy to do. I had no info on this route b/c no guide in hand, but that carved patina up high looked amazing. After poking around a bit at the bottom, I opted to start right of the "cave" near the ground following a left facing cornerish deal into a slab with a dark colored seam. This was a rather poor choice. This start was loose, the rock had crumbly grains, and pro was not inspiring, being shallow, small offset nuts in the seam. Looked easy from the ground. Took the chance on a flexible hold and made a big traverse left into the route proper. Cleaning was complicated. Recommend staying away from that bit of rock. I was hoping to find a bolted anchor to rappel from, but found none and set up a TR for our group using a few hand-sized cams, which meant having to eventually lead off the 2nd pitch (via headlamp that Wendy had to run back to the car to get), backcleaning gear through the finger crack & soloing above to make it off w/o loss. Good adventure I guess, but a guidebook could've saved much effort.

Those jugs up high were great! That roof pull goes at 5.6? Really? Feb 2, 2019

[Hide Comment] The gear on this route is fiddly, and the rock below the roof is not as stellar as you hope. There's plenty of evidence of rock releasing, and some of the flakes under the roof visibly flex. Step father right to reach the good jugs. You can sandbag at 5.5 on the internet if you want (so macho) but the moves to exit the roof are realistically 5.8- with long reaches. There are a few options for gear but I stuck a red metolius in the seam and a 0.5 BD behind the more solid undercling. Up higher after the corner, it's a kitty litter party. We found the crux to be the moves to get onto the wall after the ramp (5.7), the roof, and then the thin crack/lieback/bearhug thing after where the second belay would be (0.4 BD, maybe 5.7+ grainy). It can be done fairly easily in one pitch with long slings and a 60m rope. Nov 29, 2021

[Hide Comment] It’s Joshua Tree so this will always be a 5.6, but I tend to agree with Frodeman that pulling the roof is definitely not a 5.6 move. The start of P2 also felt a bit tougher than 5.6 using the bear hug beta. The traverse to the roof is easy but heady - there is gear but nothing super bomber. Feb 21, 2022