Margarita Crack
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | Brandt Allen et al. |
Page Views: | 1,199 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Dec 28, 2004 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest |
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Add To-Do ·CLIMBING ROUTES SLATANIC, RATTLESNAKE BUTTRESS, MARGARET THATCHER SPIRE, STEPPING STONES, BULKHEAD, DUNCE CAP, AND COMMISSIONER'S BUTTRESS ARE CLOSED DUE TO NESTING GOLDEN EAGLES
Dates of Closure: February 8th to June 15th, 2022
Description
This route is not as hard as it looks from the ground. It is well protected, secure, and is on solid stone. Other than Cellbound, it is the best route on this formation.
About 50' down and left of the routes on the south face of Jailhouse Rock, is a steep brown wall with several crack systems. Climb up a solid "bowl" to reach the bottom of a crack, perhaps three meters off of the ground. Set solid pro in the finger crack and climb it up and right onto some flakes and features, while the crack gets wider. Continue up past a few 5.8 moves to the top of the wall.
To descend go to the summit and off, or simul-rap from a solid horn.
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