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Routes in Jailhouse Rock

A Snitch In Time T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Cell Break T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Cellbound T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jail Bound T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Jail Break T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Margarita Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Brandt Allen et al.
Page Views: 547 total, 3/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 28, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is not as hard as it looks from the ground. It is well protected, secure, and is on solid stone. Other than Cellbound, it is the best route on this formation.

About 50' down and left of the previously established routes on this face, is a steep brown wall with several crack systems. Climb up a solid "bowl" to reach the bottom of a crack, perhaps 3 meters off of the ground. Set solid pro in the finger crack and climb it up and right onto some flakes and features, while the crack gets wider. Continue up past a few 5.8 moves to the top of the wall. To descend go to the summit and off, or simul-rap from a solid horn as we did (it rained on us and so we hurried down).

Protection

A standard light rack including a few cams for the crux. The rock is solid and placements appear as necessary.

Photos

C Miller
CA
  5.8
C Miller   CA  
  5.8
Perhaps the best route on this forgettable formation, but still not especially memorable. Squeaks by with half a star out of five. Jan 27, 2005