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Routes in Jailhouse Rock

A Snitch In Time T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Cell Break T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Cellbound T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jail Bound T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Jail Break T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Margarita Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Todd Swain, Peggy Buckey & Andy Schenkel, March 1987
Page Views: 54 total, 0/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 28, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is a little awkward and burly, not necessarily because of the moves required, but rather for the moves you will "probably" be making in distrust and avoidance of certain grainy features. 15 meters left of the left edge of the west face...15 meters left of Cellbound, that is, is a bulge/roof with a left-facing corner and overhead crack present to climb through it. Climb up and over this with the crux being the obvious roof. Watch for loose grains that might spit a foot or hand off.

Descend by climbing up and south over the summit to one of the two possible scrambles that lead down.

Protection

A standard light rack including a few cams for the crux. Some suspect rock merits careful protection. (With solid judgement or redundant gear, the S rating is lost).

Photos

Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
A tad bit of grain, but no particularly bad/suspect on rock on this that I saw, with the exception of the avoidable hollow plates on the far left side of the little ramp before the overhang (which is off route anyway, I traversed in from the downclimb). I think I would have noticed funky rock given that I was soloing. The overhang is a perfect handcrack with big stemming feet on both sides, upper bit is on really good mostly varnished rock. Basically an 8' boulder problem followed by 5.easy to the top. Dec 26, 2010