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Routes in Billboard Buttress

Bilbo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crack Alley V1-2 5
Driving Limitations T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Gait of Power T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Gait of Power Traverse V1 5
Knaug and Hyde T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Red Beckey (aka The Rabbi) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reverend, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sheet Bends T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slip Silly (aka Forgotten Crack) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Squat Rockets T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
We Dive At Dawn T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Matt Albrecht & Steve Orr, December 1990
Page Views: 379 total, 2/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 28, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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This route might be called "forgotten crack", but I doubt anyone who leads it will forget it soon thereafter. The 'R' rating I have assigned is for the dubiousness of the rock and placements I made, protecting the crux climbing. The route is short enough that you could hit something if a placement failed.That said, the moves are fun and unique and this lead is a decent time-passer if you are solid at the grade and confident of your ability to judge the rock quality there.

On the "Back" of Billboard Buttress, where Billboard faces Bilbo, you will see a ramp leading up and right (north) for 20' to a crack system, which can be climbed to the top of the rock. Do it. Be wary of gritty stone and some potentially bad placements along the way.


A standard set of cams. A few big units might go in near the bottom to avoid trusting lesser pro (bad rock & flares) later.


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