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Routes in The Wall - Right Side

Chalk Up Another One T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Damn Jam T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Good to the Last Drop T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pumping Ego T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Jan McCollum, Hank Levine and Dave Houser, January 1978
Page Views: 3,573 total · 22/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Steep slab climbing on polished, slippery smears (this is a popular route) past five bolts lead into a flared groove/crack. Gear belay and descend along the right margin of the wall. A little chimneying/tunneling and some downclimbing will land you back at your pack in a matter of minutes.

Location

Located on the right side of The Wall about 25 feet right of an obvious chimney system that splits the formation.

Protection

5 bolts (3/8") and pro to 3" for anchors

Photos

I see they removed R rating for this. I'm glad to read large nuts has been removed for noted protection. The upper section above the bolted crux I don't remember having any possible nut placements. Aug 11, 2017
Tradiban  
 
I didn't use any gear besides for the anchor, two C4 #2s and a #3. Jan 20, 2016
Rodger Raubach
  5.10a
Rodger Raubach  
  5.10a
Should be on everyones "short list" of climbs in JTree. My favorite face climb in the Park. Definitely 10a. Take a couple of smaller (#1 & #2) Camalots for the exit at the top. Sep 8, 2010
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
I think the horizontal below the last bolt takes a variety of gear. I placed a #2 linkcam in its largest configuration, I believe. My buddy thought it was small cams for the anchor but all I managed was a crappy red alien and a good #1 link (placed in the same range as a red camalot). I'd suggest bringing along a yellow camalot as well.

The climbing itself was good although I got bouted several times by the slightly greasy and thin crux before succeeding. Dec 8, 2008
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
Definately 10a. Delicate moves on decent rock. I remember one day while I was hanging near the parking lot a Harrier strafed us only about like 500 feet above. It was super loud and scary. I was sure someone on a route would fall and I looked around and sure enough I saw a climber take a whipper off of Chalk Up Another One. I felt bad for him cause I knew I would probably have done the same thing if I was at the crux when it happened. Apr 8, 2008
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10a
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10a
One of my early leads for the grade at J-Tree, as it was (is) well protected, and in the morning shade. Nice route, fun moves. Three stars out of five. Jul 8, 2006
Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
Shut me down--after onsighting Bearded Cabbage, Hobbit Roof, and other tens that day... Its slippery! Apr 24, 2006
I led this route again today after about a twenty year hiatus. I'd forgotten what a great climb it is. Lots of fun. Feb 5, 2005
I lead this one on 1.22.05. I would agree with the 5.10a rating. The crux is moving off of the 3rd bolt. There is a good yellow alien placement on the first horizontal with good chicken heads to stand on while placing. Just bring draws, a few cams to 3", plus the yellow alien and you will be fine. I brought too much gear an fell once at the crux. Jan 22, 2005
Jamie Silliman
Wilton, CA
Jamie Silliman   Wilton, CA
I just climbed it the other day. The Vogel guide listed it as a 10a, which I'd confirm. I onsighted it fine. Great route. Easy descent. Apr 14, 2003
Fall, singular? I always figured I learn quick, but it took me 4 or 5 tries at the crux. Something like smear left, crimp crystals and slide. I appologize for leaving a bit more rubber on the rock.

Great climb on a warm day, as both the base (I think) and climb are in the shade 'til early afternoon (I won't mention the temps at the top, though). Easy scramble to the south from the top. Mar 10, 2003
Mark Whaling
  5.10a
Mark Whaling  
  5.10a
Felt pretty .10a to me, if I could only trust that left smear... Mar 6, 2003
Randy
5.10a
Randy  
5.10a
This route has always been 5.10a; and, yes, the moves up and left from the 3rd bolt require some finesse or you could easily fall. Jan 22, 2003
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
5.10a
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
5.10a
Me too! (and here I thought I was the only one...). I remember the crux being right around the 3rd bolt. Jan 21, 2003
Josh Beck
5.10a
Josh Beck  
5.10a
Climbing casually on a nice greasy day I managed to fall off this one as well :) Definitely polished. Jan 21, 2003
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10a
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10a
Did this climb very recently, came flying off it at the crux. Warning: Don't flash a .10c then jump on this climb! It'll humble you. Quite unnerving at the crux but still a very good climb with good positions and moves.

Beautiful small/meduim Hex placement next to the last bolt, but why place it?

The crux may be technically 5.9 but the slippery nature makes it feel like a 5.10. Jan 21, 2003

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