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Routes in North Cave Rock (South Face)

Banana Splits T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Caramel Crunch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Happy Meal S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pox on You T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Rocky Road T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Whipped Topping T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Charles Cole and Dave Houser, February 1979
Page Views: 37 total, 0/month
Shared By: Randy on Dec 10, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is the farthest right-hand (eastern) route on the South Face of North Cave Rock; the last route that is actually in the Cave Corridor.

Begin on slabs, then head up the steepening face past 3 bolts and several nice knobs. At the 3rd bolt, it seems you used to go straight up (perhaps a knob has broken here) instead head left into a crack/corner system, then up and left to a ledge. Several bolt anchors are to be found up and left.

Descend by downclimbing On Ramp 5.0, a left slanting ramp/chimney on the North Face of the formation.

Protection

3 bolts and small to medium cams. 2 bolt anchor up and left.

Photos

Randy
 
Randy  
 
Shaggy Dog 5.9, aka Route 1056. Is actually on the right side of the west face of the South Formation. Dec 26, 2005
Any info on route 1056? Dec 24, 2005
Bob Gaines
  5.11a
Bob Gaines  
  5.11a
Randy, I concur with your rating. I did the route in 2002 and remember traversing left to the crack after the third bolt, thinking AHA! that's the way it goes. Dec 21, 2004
Randy
 
Randy  
 
I was hoping that someone else had done this route in recent history as we thought the crux of the route was way harder than 10c. Also, Al Bartlett show the crux as between the 2nd and 3rd bolts (10c), but for us, the crux was definitely after the 3rd bolt. The move between the 2nd and 3rd bolts did seem about 10c though.

Al also shows the route going straight up from the 3rd bolt (as does my guide). Going straight up seemed pretty rediculously hard to me, so we went left and up the crack.

The route does rely on seversal nice black knobs (hence the route name), did one break off past the 3rd bolt? Or are just completely lame?

Dec 16, 2004